With its castles, cobbled streets and courtyards, Poland’s fifth largest city has all the medieval beauty of better-known Krakow and Warsaw, but half as many visitors. Poznan is regarded by many as the country’s birthplace and its many monuments and museums tell the city’s often turbulent tale, which includes a century-long Prussian annexation and the anti-communist uprising of 1956.
Its focal point is the Old Market Square, Poznan’s heart since the 13th century. It’s edged by reasonably priced cafés and restaurants, elegant townhouses and an ornate town hall rated among Europe’s most striking Renaissance buildings.
Beyond the main square, the narrow streets are made for ambling, flanked by museums, art galleries, theatres, shops and ice-cream parlours. There are fountains, an elaborate cathedral and gabled buildings in rainbow-bright colours housing traditional bakeries and hip bars. Throw historic landmarks, green spaces and the mighty Warta River into the mix and Poznan seems purpose-built for a Polish city break.
• Morning: Old Market Square
• Lunch: Nalesnikarnia Gramofon
• Afternoon: Citadel Park
• Drink at: Concordia Taste
• Evening: Stare Koryto Warty Park
• Dinner: Maitri
Day two
• Morning: Cathedral Island
• Lunch: Dynx
• Afternoon: Croissant Museum
• Drink at: Pod Papugami
• Evening: Stary Browar
• Dinner: Restaurant Ratuszova
Day oneMorning
The Royal Castle, near the Old Market Sqaure, is filled with art
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Camera ready? Head to Old Market Square to marvel at its fine architecture. A few minutes’ walk north is the red brick Royal Castle, containing Poland’s Museum of Applied Arts displaying 2,000 pieces from the Middle Ages to the present day. For panoramic views, take the lift to the top of the 40m tower (£4; mnp.art.pl). Return to the square before noon to catch Poznan’s mechanical goats, which appear daily on the front of the town hall to butt heads 12 times.
Eat at Nalesnikarnia Gramofon
Just off Old Market Square, this zany crêperie has walls adorned with 700 gramophone records and 45 turntables, inspired by a scene in the 2001 French film Amélie. After a morning’s sightseeing, choose a savoury crêpe. Try Acapella: asparagus, cheese, Parma ham and rocket (crêpes from £7; gramo.pl).
The city is home to The Unrecognised sculptures by Magdalena Abakanowicz
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Afternoon
Stroll around Citadel Park, 15 minutes north of the old town. Once a hilltop military fortress, it’s been transformed into the city’s biggest park comprising monuments, military museums and cemeteries, which include the graves of soldiers involved in the mass breakout depicted in the film The Great Escape. Don’t miss The Unrecognised, a cluster of headless/armless cast-iron torsos, the work of Magda Abakanowicz, one of Poland’s most famous sculptors.
Drink at Concordia Taste
Although better known for vodka, Poland has a flourishing wine industry. More than 500 wineries produce two million bottles annually and this top-notch restaurant behind the Sheraton has the world’s largest selection of Polish wines. A bottle of the Winnica Turnau solaris is a must. Or book a tasting of three selected wines for £15 (wine from £5; concordiataste.pl).
Evening
The towering brick chimney is not just the remains of a gas plant, but also the entrance to Stare Koryto Warty Park, a well-maintained recreational space. Wander down to the Warta River, which meanders through the city, and stroll along its banks. If visiting between May and September, stop at KontenerART, a clutch of cabins offering food, drink and entertainment.
Maitri is a bright and breezy vegan restaurant
Eat at Maitri
Peckish after your riverside stroll? Grab a table at this bright and breezy vegan restaurant with turquoise-coloured beams and a cheery vibe. The bubbly owner serves up bumper portions that even ardent carnivores will struggle to resist. Try asparagus with rice, smoked tempeh and veg in creamy dill sauce (mains from £6; maitri.net.pl).
Day TwoMorning
The historic Cathedral Island has lots of history
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A 30-minute walk northeast of the centre, Cathedral Island (Ostrow Tumski) is where Poznan was founded. In the sugar cube-shaped Porta Posnania centre, audio guides and interactive displays chart the region’s history. Next, visit the cathedral, which was Poland’s first and dates from 968. Alongside the island, the cool district of Srodka offers pavement cafés, restaurants and a huge striking 3D mural blanketing a townhouse and depicting life here in the 1920s.
Eat at Dynx
A few steps from the mural, Dynx offers a varied menu, featuring everything from spinach-stuffed dumplings to pulled pork rib burgers and salad bowls. This contemporary restaurant’s muted tones of grey and brown are offset by the wacky light shades made from recycled juice bottles (mains from £7; restauracjadynx.eatbu.com).
Afternoon
Pastries at Poznan’s famous Croissant Museum
The St Martin’s croissant is synonymous with Poznan and a 16th-century tenement building in Old Market Square — one of the few of its kind to survive the Second World War unscathed — now houses the Croissant Museum (accessed via Klasztorna Street). The sweet-toothed will enjoy the regular interactive shows in English (£7; rogalowemuzeum.pl). Afterwards, nip round the corner to the yellow-fronted bakery, Fawor, for a calorie-busting pastry of your own (£3).
Drink at Pod Papugami
Sink into a plush red sofa at this exposed brick-walled music venue-cum-cocktail bar. Lined with artwork depicting Rod Stewart, Elton John and others, the family-owned spot offers live music each evening. Grab a coffee or beer, or work your way through the cocktail menu; try the Blues: vodka, vanilla, passion fruit, pineapple and lime (cocktails from £6; klubpodpapugami.pl).
Evening
If you fancy a little retail therapy, the huge Stary Browar — alias Old Brewery — will hit the spot. Close to the main railway station, you’ll discover nearly 200 shops, restaurants and a cinema in the striking red-brick 19th-century brewery, that’s worth seeing whether you shop or not (starybrowar5050.com).
Restaurant Ratuszova serves hearty Polish dishes
Eat at Restaurant Ratuszova
Dine alfresco at this 16th-century townhouse skirting Old Market Square. The menu champions hearty Polish dishes including dumplings stuffed with venison. Downstairs, delicately painted sprawling vines cover the walls, while its history has royal connections: the 17th-century king John II Casimir Vasa stayed here when his Warsaw castle was destroyed (mains from £11; ratuszova.pl).
Where to stayHotel Kolegiacki
The rooftop bar at Hotel Kolegiacki
2020 STUDIOLIGHTHOUSE.PL
A characterful classic close to the main square
Overlooking peaceful Kolegiacki Square, the hotel — formed from 18th and 19th-century tenement houses — is a classified historical monument. Every public space and bijou room reflects its rich history with sparkling chandeliers, antique furniture and refined drapes. A buffet breakfast is served in the courtyard-turned-atrium. Upgrade to a deluxe room with views of the square. Before retiring, enjoy a nightcap and bird’s eye view of the city at the rooftop bar (B&B doubles from £65; hotelkolegiacki.pl).
City Solei Boutique Hotel
City Solei Boutique Hotel is characterful and welcoming
Bright, eclectic fun
Overflowing with character, this boutique hotel on the site of a pre-Second World War clothing factory is tucked away in the historic Chwaliszewo district. Its 22 rooms are themed around destinations that have inspired the owner — from the fresh blue and white-walled Santorini bedroom to the bohemian chic Marrakesh suite. Guests get a welcome drink and a farewell homemade cookie. Breakfast goes above and beyond: try frittata with chorizo, cheese, tomatoes and chilli (B&B doubles from £74; citysolei.pl).
Hotel Puro
Hotel Puro is the perfect place to unwind after a day’s sightseeing
Modern style centrally based
In a plum spot in the north of the city, this contemporary upscale hotel offers 135 stylish rooms across four floors. While works from local artists adorn muted-coloured walls, floor-to-ceiling windows bathe rooms with natural light. Unwind in the sauna after a day’s sightseeing or head for the gym, especially if you’re taking advantage of the free cake served every Wednesday. Other freebies include a city tour (Saturdays); alternatively, grab a hotel bike and explore Poznan’s miles of cycle tracks (B&B doubles from £95; purohotel.pl).
Need to know
Getting there and around
Ryanair flies to Poznan from six airports, including Stansted and Bristol, taking two hours; Wizz Air (Luton) also flies direct. The airport is four miles from the centre; buses (159/148) take about 15 minutes, costing about £2 (free with a City Card, see below).
Compact Poznan is easily explored on foot, although pack comfy shoes because many streets are cobbled. A bus/tram day pass costs £2.90. The Poznan City Card grants free travel plus admission to many museums and attractions (£17 for a 48-hour pass).
Poznan’s popular Christmas market
Visit responsibly
As a more offbeat destination, Poznan is crowd-free year-round. While the Christmas market is a little busier — this year 70 stalls will be in the city from 16 November to 22 December — it is still one of Europe’s more underrated festive spots. In summer, extend your stay to take in the lakes beyond the city.
Richard Webber was a guest of the tourist boards of Poland (poland.travel), Poznan (visitpoznan.pl) and Bristol Airport for parking (bristolairport.co.uk)
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