I returned to Lapland after 24 years and found something I had lost

Seeing my daughter’s face light up was enough to get me into the Christmas spirit (Picture: Metro)

Not to be all Scrooge about it, but Christmas this year felt more like a chore and a source of anxiety than something to be excited about.   

I had forgotten the magical feeling of the Christmas build-up. It was only after my daughter spotted an old family photo on her great-granny’s mantle piece that I began thinking about the childhood trip to Lapland 24 years ago on which it was taken. Happy memories of hot chocolates, reindeer, twinkling lights and my 10-year-old brother getting his tongue stuck to a lamp post began to swirl.

With my toddler beginning to understand Christmas a bit more, I was determined to bring festive spirit back into our lives with a four-night trip to Santa’s hometown, courtesy of TUI.

Seeing the look of wonderment on her face when we encountered an ‘Elf’ at the Gatwick Airport check-in desk was enough for glimmers of merriment to start creeping in; I could feel my cold heart defrosting.

The retro snowsuits haven’t changed much since our trip in 2000 (Picture: Metro)

Getting from the UK to Lapland

Excitement continued to build as we flew over snowy mountains, tinged with the pinkish glow unique to the Arctic Circle.

Stepping off the plane at Kittilä Airport in -16 temperatures is certainly one way to feel refreshed, even after a 3am alarm. As well as freezing your nose hair, the first sniff of crisp air is enough to energise even the most frazzled of parents travelling with small children. 

Snowsuits and boots are provided if you book a package trip and you will pick these up at the airport. The smallest snowsuit for children is 90cm so if your child is smaller than that, bring your own.

The crisp air was cold enough to freeze nose hair (Picture: Metro)

Walking in a winter wonderland (Picture: Metro)
Meeting Santa Claus in Lapland

After arriving at Santa’s SnowVillage, we bundled into a sleigh and were off through the scenic woodland, searching for the Big Man himself.

Surrounded by snow dusted trees, Father Christmas’s cabin came into view as we were greeted by another one of his elves.

We warmed ourselves by the fire with some of Mrs Claus’s hot berry juice while waiting patiently for our turn.

Meeting Santa on the first day of the trip set the perfect tone for the holiday, and after seeing my daughter’s face light up during our morning at the SnowVillage I was thoroughly getting into the Christmas Spirit.  

The real deal (Picture: Metro)

Lapland’s Snow safari

If sitting on Santa’s lap doesn’t quite do it for you, there’s plenty of other options for big kids and thrillseekers. Speeding through the snow-capped trees until you reach a frozen lake is sure to be a highlight.

Balaclavas, helmets and extra gloves are provided, while the kids are also given ski goggles to wear. A brief stop at the lake to fill up on biscuits and more hot berry juice was welcome after we all got quite chilly on the ride up there.

The Lapland Hotels SnowVillage is rebuilt every year; the theme this year is ‘Underwater’ (Picture: Metro)
Reindeers and huskies in Lapland

Unfortunately there had not been enough snowfall this season for us to do the longer husky ride experience. If tree roots or large rocks on the track haven’t been blanketed by compacted snow, the huskies can injure their paws.  

Instead, we visited a husky farm and got to meet three-month-old puppies that were, much to the delight of my daughter, all named after characters from the movie Frozen.

These fluffy guys were so excited to see us (Picture: Metro)

Just like my visit to Lapland in 2000, the reindeer ride was my favourite part of the trip. The gentle plod of their hooves and tinkling bells on their reigns provide a magical soundtrack while you’re pulled along the track, snow gently falling all around. 

The magic was briefly interrupted by the sound of my snoring toddler who fell asleep seconds into the ride.

All that surrounds you is the tranquil darkness and silence of the Finnish forest before the sleigh pulls onto a large frozen lake. You’re compelled to ‘be in the moment’ and I was grateful for it. 

According to Santa’s elves, if you look a reindeer in the eye and it winks three times…you have found Rudolph (Picture: Tui)
Chilling out

If you find yourself with free time during your stay in Lapland, the Hotel Saaga is the perfect base for hitting the slopes at the Yllas Ski Resort, the largest ski field in Finland and right next door.  

I wasn’t about to start teaching my two-year-old to ski when I can barely make it to the bottom of a run myself, so sledging on the nursery slope was the perfect alternative.  

The pool and sauna at the Hotel Saaga is a perfect way to relax at the end of a chilly day. There’s even a warm baby pool complete with toys to keep the littlest ones entertained.

The following day, we reluctantly said goodbye to Lapland, bringing to an end a trip that reminded me of why Christmas really is the most wonderful time of year. 

Rosy Shearman was a guest of TUI.

TUI offers three and four-night holidays to Lapland which include flights, accommodation, transfers and a wide variety of winter excursions and extras that can be booked through TUI Musement. 

A four-night holiday to Ylläs, Lapland staying at the 4T Lapland Hotel Saaga on a bed and breakfast basis starts from £1027 per person. Price is based on two adults and two children sharing a twin room with flights departing from London Gatwick on 3rd December 2025 with 20kg hold luggage per adult and transfers.

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