The Saint-Émilion vintages red wine lovers should look out for

The medieval city of Saint-Émilion – at the crossroads of Bordeaux, Saintonge and the Périgord – is the namesake of red wines from the region whose historical vineyard landscape is a Unesco world heritage site.

The Association des Grands Crus Classés Saint-Émilion works to preserve the quality of this national treasure and also to promote it outside of France, representing 55 wineries and 90% of Saint-Émilion classified vineyards. The association’s president, Sylvie Cazes, visited Luxembourg in February and during a tasting presented 20 different wines from the region.

“We travel a lot during the year, to every continent, especially Europe, as well as the United States and of course Asia,” she said. This was the association’s first group visit to Luxembourg.

Cazes is the owner of Château Chauvin in Saint-Émilion, Chairwoman of the Board of Directors of the Cazes family estate, president of the Cité du Vin in Bordeaux, and owner of the restaurant Le Chapon Fin in the city of Bordeaux. She has also just been appointed honorary consul of the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg to Bordeaux.

The medieval town of Saint-Émilion and its Unesco heritage vineyards © Photo credit: Jean-Bernard Nadeau/SpiritPhot

“We’ve had some very fine vintages in recent years, so as far as production is concerned, we’re fairly serene,” said Cazes. “The market has effectively become global for us, and some countries are more open and work better than others.”

The US, despite tariff threats from President Donald Trump, remains a strong market, with Asia lagging far behind. In Europe, she said, “there are ups and downs, but we are still seeing good signals today.”

Even in France, people drink less wine than they used to, with some surveys saying consumption declined by as much as a third over the last decade among younger age groups. The French government started a programme offering €6,000 per hectare of uprooted vineyard, earmarking €200 million in 2023 for the destruction of excess wine.

“There are markets that are loyal, and we’re counting on these friends who love Bordeaux wines, who love Saint-Émilion wines, who love our great classified growths and who know that we can offer them a fantastic range,” said Cazes. “The estates have all made great efforts, they’re at their best and making the most of their terroirs, and the wines are still very reasonably priced. So we’re very confident in these markets.”

Bringing with her a selection of 20 wines, she said “the 2021 is a fruity vintage, with a lot of freshness, which will blossom over the next few years. It’s already very pleasant to drink and will be found in many restaurants.”

As for 2020, “the result of a very hot sunny year, it has produced powerful wines with lots of fat and roundness. They may need to age a little longer. They’re already very pleasant, but they’ll be able to age for at least 20 years. So you have to buy some and then taste a bottle from time to time to see when you prefer it,” she said.

The 20 Saint-Émilion Grands Crus Classés in review

Château Badette: While the 2021 is mineral, the 2020 is aromatic, easy drinking, with round tannins and a balsamic bouquet.

Château Bellevue: One of the more expensive Grands Crus Classés – €80 for the 2020, which is far superior to the 2011, 100% Merlot, very dense, long, with notes of dark chocolate; 14.8 degrees of alcohol!

Château Chauvin: A precise, juicy 21 with grainy tannins, and a superb 2020 in which the cabernets (franc and sauvignon, 30%) bring the minerality of the clay. Close to a Pomerol from the plateau (soils with iron dross).

Clos de Sarpe: This 3.70-hectare vineyard became organic in 2020. Petit Verdot (2%) and Cabernet Franc add juiciness to the two vintages, which are quite similar – fine, gastronomic. 

Clos Dubreuil: Ralph and Lisa Eads, a Texan couple, took over the estate from Benoit Trocard, who still vinified both vintages. 14° for the 2021, 15° for the 2020: massive, crisp wines that can be kept for a very long time.

Château Corbin: Another château that succeeded not only with the 2020, but also with the 2021. 95% Merlot – chocolate and violets dominate in a rather juicy 2021 and an invasive, full-bodied 2020.

Château Dassault: A large estate (39 hectares) whose 2021, with 50% Cabernet (Franc and Sauvignon), is fruity and Médoc in character, while the superb 2020 returns to the classic blend with the silkiness of Merlot (75%).

Château de Ferrand: A very fine, welcoming château. The elegant, harmonious 2021 is the first vintage to be converted to organic farming. Compared with the 2020, it seems more distinguished and precise. The reds go well with certain fish dishes.

Château de Pressac: This 40-hectare estate is a blend of six grape varieties, including a little Carmenère and Malbec (known here as Noir de Pressac). A long, flavoursome 2021 and a racy, juicy 2020 with a hint of vine blood. Wines with character, for long ageing.

Château Fonroque: A pioneer of organic wines in the region. Lots of elegance in both the 2021, which is ripe and soft, and the 2020, which contains more Merlot and boasts superb texture and real tension – a delicious, sunny wine.

Château Grand Corbin: The estate now includes the vines of the former Château Haut Corbin and Château Grand Corbin. The 2021 offers saline and mineral notes, while the 2020 pleases with its fullness and the chocolate notes of the Merlot.

Château Grand Corbin-Despagne: François Despagne, who has long relied on organic and now biodynamic viticulture, offers a charming, fruity 2021 that goes well with fish, and a 2020 with 15° of alcohol that you wouldn’t expect from this tasty, precise vintage.

Château Haut-Sarpe: One of the many properties owned by the Joseph Janoueix family, like La Confession. A 2021 dominated by the cherry fruit of the Cabernet Franc, and a 2020 that is already open, charming and round, with soft tannins.

Château La Confession: It contains 70% Merlot and 30% Bouchet, which is none other than Cabernet Franc. I confess that I enjoyed both the 2021 and the 2020, which reflect the characteristics of the vintages. These are already affordable wines.

Château La Fleur Morange: This is a small estate created in 1999 in the commune of Saint-Pey-d’Armens, around a very old vineyard. The wines have been matured in 500-litre barrels for six years. Both vintages have been very successful, with sublimely precise flavours.

Château La Marzelle: Biodynamic viticulture since 2008; 80% new oak and amphorae used. The 2021 is full of finesse and fruit, while the 2020 is of a different calibre, very dense and still under the influence of wood, with good ageing potential.

Château La Serre: A 7-hectare estate situated at the top of the limestone plateau, just outside the medieval town of Saint-Émilion. The 20% Cabernet Franc makes a strong impression on the fruity, lively 2021, while the 2020 is tighter and less open, with the toast from the wood taking over.

Château La Tour Figeac: The Château dates back to 1879, when it was separated from Château Figeac, and has been owned by German entrepreneur Otto Rettenmeier since 1994. It contains 40% Cabernet Franc and its wines are always tasty, as the 2021 and 2020 vintages also prove, confirming the suave character of these wines.

Château Laroze: Another estate with a lot of Cabernet Franc in the blend (and often a little Petit Verdot and Malbec). The 2021 is very mineral, with lovely notes of coffee, while the 2020 is fuller, very chocolatey (Merlot!), with a touch of blood orange.