After days filled with pastizzi, history lessons, bespoke chocolate and Maltese fries that made me question everything I thought I knew about potatoes, I’m convinced that the true magic of Malta reveals itself in the chillier months. This island, I discovered is a food-lover’s paradise, regardless of the budget. It also really a tale of two cities – Mdina’s timeless charm and Valletta’s vibrant energy. Love you, Gozo, but I can see why Malta is the big draw. And the big secret? Go when it’s off-season. That might seem obvious, but lucky for you it’s not – if the army of visitors that flock to the region in the summer and spring months are anything to go by. In the chillier seasons there are still blue skies and hours of sunshine. That’s when you’ll find the silence in Mdina, the space to breathe in wild Valletta, and, of course, the chance to totally discover why this little Mediterranean island is an actual gem.