Jil Sander creative directors Luke and Lucie Meier are exiting the brand after eight years, parent group OTB announced shortly after the show on Wednesday (OTB chairman Renzo Rosso presented the teary duo with white flowers backstage post-show, which confirmed the rumours even before the official release).
New names invigorated the schedule
There was an influx of emerging talent in Milan this season, with buzzy newer names like Francesco Murano, Institution by Galib Gassanoff and Giuseppe di Morabito appearing on the official schedule. It’s a focus for Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, Capasa said ahead of MFW. Murano, whose on-schedule debut was supported by a grant from the Camera della Moda Fashion Trust, was recently announced as one of the 2025 LVMH Prize semi-finalists.
Editors were impressed by Gassanoff’s debut for his new brand Institution, which the Georgian designer established after parting ways with previous design partner Luca Lin (with whom he founded Act No.1).
“Institution and Francesco Murano have been highlights this week. They’re totally different, but they both emphasise slow fashion and craft,” says Sara Sozzani Maino, international new talent and brands ambassador and creative director at Fondazione Sozzani. “These kids are building their brands [their own way]. Francesco wants to focus on made-to-order and quality. Galib underlines the importance of craftsmanship, blending Georgian heritage with Made in Italy. For them, it’s about the message they’re sending and their values.”
Cardini also notes emerging brand Durazzi, which presented on schedule for the second time this season, this time constructing a fake recording studio in its Milan HQ, with musicians wearing the collection as they performed. Maino also highlighted Florania, the independent genderless brand founded by stylist and illustrator Flora Rabitti, and local knitwear collective Pecoranera as ones to watch.
“It’s the first time in a long time that we have [a few] designers in Milan who are worthy of attention, with shows that commanded press presence and buyer presence,” Cardini says.
Closing out the week, emerging designer Avavav continued with her clever show concepts, while unveiling some pieces from her ongoing collaboration with Adidas. This time, models rose from the dead, clawing through a grave and emerging from beneath (reflecting a difficult time the designer has been experiencing with her health). “We spent months looking for a location where this was actually possible to build without it costing a huge amount of money,” she says, “finally we pulled it off.”