On the old road to Siauliai, two hours’ drive north of Kaunas, there’s a hill that will bring you closer to God. It is a transfixing, biblical sight: a ghostly mass of more than 100,000 wooden, metal, gold and glass crucifixes teeter high over fields, pilgrims weep in their shadow, rays of sun beat down. Other than the rattle of rosary beads on oak and iron on the crosses, there’s silence.
I’ve parked my little rental car at the Hill of Crosses and I’d argue it’s one of the most intense yet magical sights you can see from the roadside anywhere. As rusting crucifixes soar to heaven above your bonnet, you could believe that some divine being is on your side.
Lithuania is a deeply