That realisation led Kumar to creating Gingko. While the establishment offers approachable Japanese cuisine—ramen, karaage, sushi, gyoza—designed for both first-timers and familiar palates, it is the lesser-known aji fry (panko-breaded horse mackerel), that are the game changers. “People may come for sushi, but once they’ve dined here a few times, they start asking about new options. If I had started with a menu full of unfamiliar items, no one would have ordered them,” he reasons. For example, few are aware of kaiseki—a refined, seasonal cuisine rooted in the same traditions that once shaped Buddhist and Hindu food philosophy. Kumar, who specialises in kaiseki, describes it as “a traditional multi-course Japanese dinner, much like India’s satvik food. Kaiseki follows strict principles, often omitting red meat, onions, and garlic, yet making space for the one ingredient indispensable to Japanese cuisine: fish.”
A painting and sculpting enthusiast, he noticed that in Japan even an ordinary meal often came with an illustration explaining its history or ingredients. “It made me appreciate not just the food but the thought and craftsmanship behind it; I decided to incorporate this idea into my own work. When I prepare a dish, especially one unfamiliar to diners, I create an accompanying illustration,” he says.