From epic adventures to miniature time travel, from beautiful beaches to fabulous food, the Vendée ticks every box for a fine family holiday.
The word ‘magical’ is overused to describe tourist attractions but some unquestionably merit such a label. Puy du Fou, the sprawling historical theme park located at Les Epesses in the Vendée, is a case in point. Prior to visiting, I had heard many great things in praise of its stunning storytelling and special effects, and its centuries-spanning range of spectacular shows. But to experience it is truly wondrous.
So here I am, seated in one of the park’s huge outdoor arenas (there are indoor, theatre-style ones, too, on the list of 20 must-see shows, more on which later) feeling as excited as a little kid. I watch, eyes agog and mouth agape, in awe as a replica Viking longship emerges from underwater, from which descend armed marauders to ransack a simple French village whose residents are celebrating a wedding. The pounding musical score, the thatched roofs all aflame, and realistic stunt-fight scenes played out by a large number of actors, combine superbly to produce a stunning drama. Youngsters all around me roar their approval each time one of the villainous invaders takes a hit. Will the brave Gallic defenders see off the arrivistes? What do you think? This, like most of the park’s shows, offers a very patriotic French ‘living history’ experience, after all.
The Viking spectacle was my debut Puy du Fou show, but there was so much more to marvel at – there are too many highlights to mention but I can confirm that the reputed Cinéscénie nighttime show (2,550 actors on a stage spread over 23 hectares and 28,000 costumes!) is one of the most impressive things I’ve ever witnessed. I also loved the gladiators-and-chariots thrill of Le Signe du Triomphe, set in a Gallo-Roman amphitheatre with much raucous audience participation; the extraordinary Le Dernier Panache, the tale of a French naval officer, staged indoors with an eye-popping 360° decor; and Le Bal des Oiseaux Fantômes, a choreographed display featuring some 300 swooping eagles, falcons, vultures, kites and owls.
My 2-day stay was just enough to see all the essentials, with some planning regarding show start times required (the Puy du Fou app is a great help and worth downloading); but 3 or 4 days is probably better. I also advise taking the queue-jumping Pass Émotion ticket which gives access to ‘reserved’ seats up to 10 minutes before the start of each show (includes entry to 9 shows).
As for accommodation, take your pick of on-site themed hotels; mine, La Citadelle was a super-comfortable medieval home from home but you may prefer 17th century splendour at Le Grand Siècle or a Gallo-Roman villa. They complete the immersive experience of Puy du Fou’s ‘magical’ time-travel adventures.