I was experiencing a strong bout of deja vu as we renavigated the iconic Ring Road of Iceland. In fact, this was the very same route I had taken six years prior. But even with the familiar scenery, so much had changed. The most striking difference being the people. Back then, the road felt like it was mine, and mine alone. Every stop – whether at waterfalls, volcanic craters, or glacier trails – was an intimate experience, shared in solitude with nature itself. I assumed this isolation was due to the season, but every local we met on this latest trek confirmed that Iceland was currently undergoing a massive tourism boom. This time, in September 2024, it was apparent we would be forced to share this prestigious venue.
Even with the influx of visitors, Iceland’s power was far from diminished. The country remains a place of jaw-dropping beauty – above and below the water. From the capital’s wildlife access, like whale watching and puffin spotting, to the south’s sprawling landscapes of glaciers and volcanic activity, the island’s wild spirit is still alive and well. It’s a country that has so much to explore, no matter how many times you’ve been around the Ring Road.
On my first trip to Iceland, I hadn’t planned to dive the Silfra Fissure, but this time, it was non-negotiable. Silfra is one of those iconic sites that sits atop every diver’s bucket list, and for good reason. The chance to dive between two tectonic plates – North America and Eurasia – is as surreal as it sounds. The clarity of the glacial-fed water, combined with the sheer uniqueness of the site, makes it spectacular no matter how experienced a diver you are. Searching Silfra Fissure online results in an abundance of articles and photography. And during our research, one photographer had stood out among the rest: Byron Conroy.
His uncanny ability to capture such unique underwater perspectives, unlike many others in the world, had left us intrigued. And so I dove deeper into Byron and discovered a legend – an accomplished underwater photographer, global adventurer and pioneering explorer with a deep passion for frigid waters. Meeting him quickly became a cornerstone of our expedition trail. We wanted to experience Iceland through his lens, to venture beyond the well-trodden Ring Road into the hidden places that only someone with his knowledge could share. And Byron delivered – snowstorm et all.
Our game plan was to meet Byron and a colleague of his named Erlendur (Eli) Bogason of Strýtan Divecenter to see beyond what the internet has to offer when it comes to diving in Iceland. Eli and Bryon had been working together to document the elusive wolffish in the second largest city of the country, found in the far north, called Akureyri. Eli serves as its long-time local expert (born and raised in Iceland), while Byron serves as its underwater content creator with his expert knowledge on the conditions that come with Icelandic diving. Together, their combined expertise made them a force to be reckoned with. While we planned to witness this dynamic duo in action underwater firsthand, that didn’t exactly go according to plan.
Iceland’s diving conditions are as unpredictable as the island itself. No matter the season, you’re at the mercy of its ever-changing weather – a phenomenon amplified by climate change. As we journeyed west to north, what had been calm and picturesque to start gave way to relentless winds and seasonally early snowstorms. It became clear (and unfortunate) that the ocean would be off-limits for our entire two-week expedition leg. Faced with these challenges, we had no choice but to pivot and embrace the unpredictability of the adventure.