After focusing exclusively on private events for the past two years, fine-dining restaurant La Cristallerie – tucked within the Art Nouveau setting of Hôtel Le Place d’Armes in Luxembourg City – has officially reopened to the public, now under the guidance of a new head chef.

Since the departure of Michelin-starred chef Fabrice Salvador at the end of 2022, La Cristallerie had stepped out of the public culinary spotlight. But, as of 24 April, the restaurant has returned, aiming once again to carve its place in Luxembourg’s gastronomic scene.

At the helm is 32-year-old Milan Brée, a French chef from Nantes with a background in fine dining. Though not new to Luxembourg, Brée has spent the past seven years working in esteemed kitchens across the country, including Les Jardins d’Anaïs (when it held a Michelin star) and more recently as sous-chef at La Villa de Camille et Julien.

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Brée also spent time at the prestigious Crayères in Reims. His entire career has been shaped by discipline and refinement of haute cuisine. “I’ve always liked this place”, he says of La Cristallerie, noting its legacy and reputation as a former Michelin-starred venue.

Indeed, until 2020, the restaurant held a star, during what was a difficult year for Luxembourg’s fine dining sector, with several notable restaurants losing their distinctions.

Brée is now laying the foundations for a menu that draws from the traditions of classic French cuisine, built around seasonal ingredients and occasional inspiration from his native Brittany. “I love working with seafood”, he explains, citing chefs like Alexandre Couillon and Christopher Coutanceau as key influences.

Brée further acknowledged that Luxembourg is more of a game region, ingredients to which he is less used. “We’re a long way from the ocean, but I like to adapt and enjoy the challenge”, Brée said.

Though he came to cooking later than most, after initially pursuing studies in animation and technical drawing – “but without much passion”, he admits – Brée credits his love of food to his grandparents, explaining that he has been eating sea asparagus from a very early age.

His grounded attitude contrasts with the refined ambition of his dishes. Three tasting menus are available: Éclat (€79), Reflet (€109), and Cristal (€159), each promising a unique culinary journey.

Highlights include dishes like a langoustine terrine with sorrel, fennel, and caviar, which sets a confident tone. Special attention is also given to showcasing Luxembourgish wines.

Despite the elegance of the offering, Brée says he is not chasing accolades: “I’m not thinking about the guides. I just want to do things well and build gradually. A distinction would be a reward, but it’s not the goal, I’m doing what I’ve learned.”

This philosophy is shared by the hotel’s new general manager, Mathieu Clausel, who took up the role at the end of 2023, stating that “La Cristallerie is positioning itself as a fine-dining restaurant with a strong commitment to quality and consistency, but also a real desire for accessibility and humility”.

Clausel further states that if they do end up receiving a star, it will be the result of their hard work.

Clausel adds that Milan Brée is “the perfect fit” to embody this new direction, as he reflects the values of humility and openness that the establishment is aiming for.

In the broader structure of the Relais & Châteaux property, Dominik Ambros serves as executive chef overseeing the entire hotel, while front-of-house operations are led by service director Mathieu Brébion. Brée is also supported by pastry chef Damien Grandclaude, formerly of Cercle Munster.

Meanwhile, the hotel’s two other dining venues – Le Plëss and Le Café de Paris – continue under their respective chefs.