France may be modern wine’s ‘mother country’ as I wrote recently, but if we take all of wine history into account, Greece may be a better candidate. 

There is archaeological evidence Greece has been making wine for at least 6,500 years. Older sites are found in Armenia and Georgia but those cultures don’t seem to have exported their wines or their wine knowledge in the way Greece did to its colonies in France, southern Italy, and North Africa (Carthage in modern Tunisia).

Pliny The Elder (24-79 CE) wrote extensively about Greek wines which sold at a higher price than local wines, and in particular he praised the wines of Lesbos and Chios. Wine was considered integral to Greek life, culture, and philosophy, with our modern word ‘symposium’ having its origin in the Greek word for ‘drinking party’. 

Wine consumption was considered essential for the development of philosophical ideas, cf.: The modern Irish pub. 

I first wrote about Greek wines here in 2015 and at the time there were just a couple of wines in M&S and O’Brien’s (excellent) Gaia Estate from Nemea. Ten years later several importers have quality Greek wines in their portfolio. 

I recommend the wines of Lyrarakis from Crete, Kamara from WinesDirect, and imports by Cassidys and Greek specialist Oinos (see Aspela below).

Greece is mountainous with a variety of climates to allow for all styles of wine: Crisp zingy whites (assyrtiko), aromatic whites (malagousia), and fruit-driven, elegant, complex reds (xynomavro and agiorgitiko).

I confess I also love cultural references and to imagine that Aristotle or King Leonidas of Sparta might have drunk similar. Clio, below, is from the Valley of the Nine Muses near Thebes, home to Hercules, Oedipus and Dionysus, the god of wine; I’m sure they would approve.

Athlon Assyrtiko, Macedonia, Greece, €10

Assyrtiko is the most renowned and most accessible white grape cultivated in Greece, most famously found on the beautiful island of Santorini.

On first sniff this reminded me of lemon sherbet with the addition of lime and apricot. Crisp and dry with pleasing citrus notes and a stoney freshness; this also has 15% Chardonnay which adds a little body and texture. Perfect summer drinking.

Clio The Red Muse, Viotia, Greece, €19

From a vineyard just north of Thebes (home of Dionysus, Greek god of wine) in the Valley of the Muses beside Mount Helicon.

Named for Clio the Muse of History, this is a blend of Agiorgitiko and Merlot with bright cherry and violet scents, supple velvety fruits and good length.

Try with some barbecued lamb.

Cavavin Limerick & Galway; The Wine Pair; Sweeneys; Searsons.com

Bosinakis ‘Aspela’ Moschofilero, Peloponnese, Greece, €40

Moschofilero is pink-purple in colour and highly aromatic.

This is somewhere between a rosé and light red wine with a dusky pink colour and a taut texture.

From a low yielding altitude vineyard (900m), this is floral and seductive with rose petal and lychee aromas, a supple palate with some crunch, freshness and good length.

A gorgeous sensuous wine that deserves to be better known.

MacCurtain St Wine Cellar

Beer of the week: Dungarvan ‘Greenway’ Waterford Pale Ale, 4.5% ABV, 500ml, €3.85

This is Dungarvan’s seasonal release so snap it up quickly (the 2024 edition sold out by the August bank holiday).

A bright zippy pale ale brewed with Simcoe, Citra and Amarillo and packed with herbal, citrus aromas, a crisp, refreshingly bitter and zingy palate, and a long hoppy finish perfect for warm days.