Perched above the serene Lake Albano, Castel Gandolfo is once again preparing to host a pope after a 12-year hiatus, as newly elected Pope Leo XIV reinstates the centuries-old tradition of the papal summer retreat—reviving symbolic rituals that his predecessor Pope Francis had renounced.

The American-born pontiff, known for his athleticism and fondness for baseball, arrives at the historic 55-hectare estate this Sunday for a two-week stay. Vatican insiders suggest the retreat will serve both as a spiritual respite and an opportunity to draft his long-term agenda on key Church issues.

“Popes need this place to work in a fresher context, more adapted for thought and prayer,” said parish priest Father Tadeusz Rozmus, speaking to the Financial Times. “It is not sin to swim… movement is the best doctor.”

Castel Gandolfo, located in the Alban Hills south of Rome, had long served as a papal sanctuary from the summer heat of the capital until Pope Francis, in a symbolic break from papal tradition, stopped using the villa, rejected summer holidays, and converted part of the Apostolic Palace into a museum.

Now, Pope Leo’s return marks a shift in tone and style. While he shares Francis’ progressive positions on climate change and migration, he has embraced many of the trappings of traditional papal life. He is moving into the old papal apartments in the Apostolic Palace, wears more ornate vestments, and projects a tone of unity and conciliation, particularly toward conservative factions disoriented by Francis’ reformist earthquake.

“Francis was prophetic, but he was an earthquake within the Catholic Church,” said Vatican journalist Iacopo Scaramuzzi. “Leo is observing, moving very calmly in a very prudent way.”

The visit has stirred excitement and anxiety in the local community, with officials and business owners scrambling to prepare for the influx of pilgrims, Vatican staff, and security personnel. “It’s like a director preparing for a great film,” said Castel Gandolfo’s mayor, Alberto De Angelis. “We said we were waiting with open arms for him.”

Local businesses, while hopeful for renewed tourism, also face tight security restrictions. “We are very happy that he is coming back… but we don’t really know what will happen,” said Alessandro Carosi, whose family runs a bar in the town’s main square.

For centuries, Castel Gandolfo was deeply woven into the fabric of the papacy. First claimed by Pope Clement VIII in 1596, the estate was developed into a retreat by Pope Urban VIII in 1626. During World War II, it served as a shelter for more than 12,000 refugees. John Paul II called it “Vatican Two,” even recovering there after an assassination attempt in 1981. Pope Benedict XVI stayed there after his resignation in 2013.

Francis, in contrast, visited only briefly and never spent a night at the villa, drawing criticism from traditionalists. His minimalist style, including simple white cassocks and residence in a modest guesthouse, has now been visibly reversed by Leo’s more formal papal presentation.

“Leo is trying to build bridges with those who felt Francis went too far on the poverty and austerity thing,” said Massimo Faggioli, a theologian at Trinity College Dublin. “He’s giving strong signals to Catholic elites — bishops, cardinals — that he wants to work with them, not call them out publicly.”

Yet the new pope isn’t solely looking backward. Analysts believe that during his stay at Castel Gandolfo, Leo will begin crafting his vision for the Church — including stances on women’s roles, the clergy’s response to abuse scandals, and ongoing global humanitarian crises. He has also been direct in appealing for donations to shore up the Vatican’s finances.

With the Apostolic Palace museum remaining open to visitors, Leo will be housed in a separate villa on the estate. And while few expect a radical transformation overnight, many see his symbolic return to Castel Gandolfo as a quiet but potent shift in Vatican tone.

As Father Rozmus put it: “We receive from God a great gift: our body, and it depends on us how we take care of it… Swimming, skiing — all this is worth doing.”