At the southernmost tip of Portugal, sweeping along the Atlantic coast from Spain on one side to Cabo de San Vicente on the other, is a hidden-in-plain-sight region known as the Algarve. A slow-living enclave characterised by whitewashed fishing villages, turquoise coves, ochre cliffs and orange groves, the Algarve feels like Euro summer’s quiet secret. I arrived here in late June, after travelling through France, Spain and Portugal, and it immediately felt like a much-needed pause from the reality of long-haul travel: hopping from bus to train, lifting a suitcase at stations that seem to have lifts for aesthetic purposes only and standing in never-ending RyanAir queues. Less busy and (slightly) less undiscovered than the usual Europe haunts (think the Greek Islands, South of France, Sicily or Amalfi), you can still wrap yourself in sun lounges, fresh seafood and whichever flavour of Spritz your heart desires (although it feels important to note here that Portugal’s white wines are unforgettable). The region is sleepy and warm, unhurried and sun-soaked and after only one visit, it’s already a place I know I’ll return to again and again.
To stay: Casa Modesta
Casa Modesta is a family-run boutique hotel set between the city of Olhão and the village of Fuseta. It’s right in the heart of the Ria Formosa Natural Park, a gentle coastal lagoon made up of picturesque sandbanks, salt pans, freshwater lakes and small fishing communities. This local heritage inspired the hotel’s design – the architecture and layout have deep ties to traditional fishing life. Casa Modesta was originally the Fernandes family home (they still run the space today, spearheaded by son Carlos Fernandes) and was built in the 1940s by the family’s grandfather, fisherman Joaquim Modesto de Brito. It was inherited and lovingly transformed by Carlos and his sister Vânia Brito Fernandes (who both grew up in the home) – an architect at PAR Plataforma de Arquitectura who led the design and renovation – before it opened its doors as a luxury retreat in 2015. The family kept the design of the simple white cube-like house, traditionally built in tight grids to serve the daily life of the region’s fishermen; the ground floor for living, the roof terrace for laying out freshly caught fish to dry and the upper levels as lookouts for the tide, weather, or boats coming in. Now a guest house offering nine rooms with private patios, a swimming pool, lush gardens and two common rooms (the sitting room-style reception and an honesty bar complete with local cocktail ingredients, bottles of Portuguese wine and an espresso machine), many of the aesthetic elements still reflect the functional, layered design and slow rhythms of fishing life – sunbaked clay floor tiles, cork for insulation, reed ceilings, raw linen accents and window openings placed to frame the changing light.
A day at Casa Modesta begins with breakfast: a lovingly curated spread of everything you could desire, from hot eggs to fresh local fruits, in-house baked breads and cheeses, each dish cooked by the hotel’s chef and served on charmingly mismatched plates. Mid-morning is spent on a sun lounge beside the hotel’s swirling soft green and aqua pool, inspired by Ria Formosa’s shimmering estuaries and using copper – a natural mineral – to keep the water pure without harsh chemicals. By afternoon, wander into the open bar and fix yourself a gin and tonic, before dinner is served alfresco in the Algarve’s sea-salted air – oven-baked bream with grilled prawns and roasted vegetables of every colour (peppers, tomatoes, purple sweet potatoes) – by far one of the best meals I’ve ever had the pleasure of eating. Though what really sets the hotel apart isn’t its luxurious pool or Instagram-worthy design, it’s that every single need was anticipated and met with warmth and attention: split-second replies from Carlos on email, or when admiring the jam at breakfast to be told that “Carlos’s mother made that” or in taking grappa after a meal that “Carlos’s father produced it”, or even when I complained of stiff shoulders “Carlos’s brother is a trained physiotherapist, he offers massages – would you like one?” – and of course, at every corner, the rich design elements that were lovingly handpicked by the sister, whose sharp eye has touched this hotel at every turn.
To do: island hop
Catch a small local ferry to some of the most beautiful and under-the-radar islands of the Ria Formosa to enjoy the crystal-clear water, untouched strips of sand, beach clubs and village cafes. Situated close to Casa Modesta is Fuseta, a small fishing village considered a gateway to the islands. From here, you can catch a small ferry or water taxi to:
Ilha da Fuseta: calm, slow and lagoon-facing
Ilha da Armona: stretches of white sand, seasonal cafés and local seafood spots
Ilha da Culatra: some of the best beaches in the area
If you don’t fancy leaving the poolside for long then you can also take a dip at one of the beaches at Fuseta or wander around Bias do Sul, a small hamlet with a peaceful, rural temperament.
To see: Museu Municipal De Faro
One afternoon, it’s worth a wander through the city of Faro’s museum, known as the Museu Municipal de Faro. Housed in the former Convento de Nossa Senhora da Assunção, a beautifully restored 16th‑century Renaissance convent, the Museu Municipal de Faro opened in 1973 and showcases a blend of archaeology and visual art. Of note are reliquary paintings from the 16th – 19th centuries as well as works by Carlos Porfírio, a painter from the Algarve and part of the Futurist group that emerged in the capital in 1917.
To shop: Zé e Maria and Casa Sergio
Head into the city of Olhão for a meia de leite, a browse of one of the local pharmacies and a visit to one of the design-forward stores to pick up artisanal wares and handcrafted ceramics. Zé e Maria sells an edit of the Portuguese-born brand Casa Cubista in every colour: terracotta-coloured salad bowls, milk jugs in emerald green and stripey sunshine-yellow espresso cups with matching saucers. Head to Casa Sergio for locally-crafted linens, wooden salt boxes and rattan lamp shades that will have you dreaming of the Algarve from home.
To eat: take your pick…
Before I visited Portugal, I had no idea how delicious the country’s cuisine was (did you know they have 22 Michelin-starred restaurants?). Grilled fish straight from the Atlantic, clams sautéed in garlic and olive oil, earthy vegetable sides and of course, creamy pastry-forward desserts. It would be difficult to find a bad meal in the Algarve – lighter than traditional Portuguese cuisine and full of the freshest seafood I’ve ever eaten – but here were some of my favourites:
Casa Modesta: if you’re staying as a guest you have the option to dine-in for a three-course dinner. I ate there a few times since the chef never serves the same dish to a guest twice
Cha Cha Cha: in Olhão for small plates and aperitivo
Cestaria Bistro: for dinner and an enviable wine list of Portuguese drops
Maré Shrimp: for, well.. shrimp
Lagar Mar: if you want larger Portuguese plates with a seafood-twist
I know I’ll think about the seafood I ate in the Algarve as often as I will the region’s warm hospitality. It’s a slow, oozy, can’t-get-out-of-the-sunbed stop that’s a must on any well-considered European itinerary. There’s a book on display within the reception area at Casa Modesta that includes this quote, taken from a collection of essays titled A Razão do Azul by Eduardo Prado Coelho: “The coastal condition has one rule: to give consistency to the sea without losing anything in the infinite.” Here captures the spirit of the Algarve.
