Say what you will about Meghan, the Duchess of Sussex’s As ever brand, but the products sell out as quickly as Taylor Swift tickets.
Since As ever debuted in April, customers have been desperate to own a piece of whatever Meghan’s marketing, whether it’s tea, jam, baking mixes, or flower sprinkles.
Maybe Americans have suddenly developed a hunger for shortbread cookies – or perhaps it’s Meghan’s celebrity driving the sales. I just want to know if the products are any good, which is how I found myself repeatedly refreshing my laptop browser from my New York apartment at 12pm EST on 1 July, when Meghan’s latest launch, a 2023 Napa Valley rosé, officially dropped on its website (As ever is only shipping within the US at the moment). Thankfully, I was able to snag a few bottles before they flew out of stock, so I could decide for myself if Meghan deserves her flowers – fresh or dried – for this new venture.
Curated by the Duchess of Sussex, As ever’s Provençal-style rosé is produced by California winery Fairwinds Estate — so you won’t see “M” and “H” gleefully stomping grapes in their Montecito garden in series two of “With Love, Meghan.” Described as having “soft notes of stone fruit, gentle minerality, and a lasting finish,” the Napa Valley rosé is sold as a pack of three ($90), a half case ($159), and a full case ($300).
As ever’s Provençal-style rosé is produced by California winery Fairwinds Estate (Photo: Supplied)
I bought the three-pack, which arrived at my New York City apartment two weeks later. Each bottle was snugly wrapped in tissue paper bearing a sticker of As ever’s hummingbird-and-palm tree logo. Also in the box: A “hand-calligraphed” note from Meghan encouraging me to “enjoy” her alcohol.
Once the rosé was chilled, I recruited my friend Suzanne to sample it with me. I gave us both a generous pour, swirled my glass to aerate the pale blush wine, and then took a sniff. It had a pleasant aroma with faint notes of peach. Then I took a sip. It was still giving peach, but a sour, not fully ripe one that needs maybe one more day to sweeten. The slight sourness wasn’t awful, but it did lend a pucker to the sip. As ever claims that its rosé boasts a “gentle minerality,” but I only detected acidity, with a tang in the back of my throat as it went down and even a brief burning sensation in my chest. This stuff was strong!
Suzanne also felt the burn, but she didn’t dislike the rosé. “It tastes like a heavy chardonnay,” she said. “It would be better for a chilly fall evening than a warm summer day.” She was spot on. As ever calls the blend a light rosé, but it’s actually very full-bodied – and way too heavy to drink in the midst of the heatwave New York was experiencing. Overall, the rosé wasn’t terrible. But it also wasn’t outstanding. It was just… fine.
Joshua Lorbes pouring the rosé (Photo: supplied)
Clearly, I’m no wine expert, which is why I got one more opinion from someone who is: Joshua Lorbes, the sommelier at Jack & Charlie’s restaurant in the West Village. Lorbes thought Meghan’s rosé had a “very interesting” nose with notes of orange and peach. “It doesn’t smell too powerful, which is nice. It reminds me of Provence rosés, which are the benchmark for easy-drinking rosés.” (Well done, Meghan!) He took a sip. “That is kind of heavy. From the nose, it smells so light and gentle.”
Lorbes looked at the bottle’s label and was shocked to see that the alcohol content was 14.5%. “That’s like a cabernet sauvignon!” he said. The alcohol content of rosé typically ranges between 11% – 13%, so As ever’s blend – made up of cabernet sauvignon, Mourvèdre, grenache, and Syrah varietals – can easily get you buzzed.
“The acidity is also very high,” said Lorbes, who got that same burning sensation that I did in his chest. “This is something people [should] drink with food. I’m thinking grilled meats in your backyard or by the ocean. It’s not something you’d drink on its own, and you’re not going to have multiple glasses.”
For a celebrity wine with a $30 price point, the rosé was “pretty good,” Lorbes said, and a smart move for Meghan’s As ever brand. “It’s a safe business decision for her,” he said. “Everyone loves rosé.”
But will everyone love As ever’s rosé? The initial drop sold out in under an hour, and the brand plans to expand its range with a sparkling wine in the near future, with more varietals to follow. I do believe that Meghan thoughtfully curated the Napa Valley rosé blend and didn’t just lend her name to a label. But truthfully, this wine wasn’t what I was expecting. Instead of being simple and well-balanced, As ever’s rosé is bold and rather acidic. Despite those qualities, it’s still drinkable, but does it make me want to rosé all day? No, I’d say.