I’d like to think I am rather liberal when it comes to watch collecting and watch wearing philosophy. The first rule of watch club, in my opinion, is – your wallet, your wrist, your watch, your rules. I say as much in my 10 Signs You’re Becoming a Watch Snob story on the site, and further state that it is wrong to impose your watch wearing and watch collecting philosophies on others as irrefutable rules and truths.
However, in the same way I biologically cannot help but cringe when someone orders a high-quality cut of meat well-done, I just cannot help making a stank face when I see people do this. Do what you want, but personally, I cannot get behind people putting dressy watches on NATO straps.
I know such a pairing is by no means an epidemic, but it is something I have encountered over the years. I most recently spotted this strap-watch-dynamic from a post courtesy of James McVey, a celebrated musician and artist, as well as a down-with-the-sickness watch lover (so much so, he created a dedicated watch Instagram profile, as many of us do).
As you can see above, James has put his Grand Seiko SBGA413 ‘Shunbun’, a titanium watch sold on a titanium bracelet, on a beige/khaki NATO strap. Though it is definitely not a dress watch, it is a watch I would certainly describe as a watch with “robust elegance”. Despite being a capable 100-metre water-resistant titanium daily-wearer, there is nothing “tool watch” about its aesthetic, and I believe only watches with a tool watch vibe are really suited for a NATO. McVey is fully aware of the perceivable faux-pas, having captioned his post “How annoyed does this NATO make you?”
This subject really became a subject of internal Time+Tide team debate when Scandinavian stud-muffin, watch expert and A Matter of Time co-host Kristian Haagen began frequently sharing his more dressy pieces outfitted on NATO straps. Such posts are often littered with comments of support or unexpected surprise at how well the combinations work. I, however, just cannot get behind it. Kristian has the chops – the aura, perhaps – to pull it off. But for me, it would be like putting me in one of the Met Gala outfits actors wear. It just wouldn’t look right on a fashion mortal like myself. A fashion god like Mr Haagen, though…
Image courtesy of @kristianhaagen
I should make the distinction that what ultimately tips my sentiment towards being against the dynamic has nothing to do with the material itself. For example, I think the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet looks great on its textile straps. For me, it is more the architecture, shape, and backstory of a NATO strap. In terms of architecture and shape, when you see Kristian’s Cartier Tank Américaine on a NATO off the wrist, I would agree that the beige fabric pairs well with the watch. But as you can see on the wrist in his shot of his watch on a darker NATO strap, so much of the inevitable NATO bulk is present. It makes a long, slim dress watch feel even longer and appear thicker. What’s the real benefit, then?
Image courtesy of @kristianhaagen
So, I have established that what it really boils down to for me is the bulk. I take no issue with dressier pieces being worn on fabric, textile, or even rubber straps in certain instances. Kristian’s Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 would work for me on a strap of the same material in the shot above, but on a strap that does not pass through the underside of the watch – that is, a two-piece NATO strap, as they’re sometimes called. Get rid of that abundance of extra material that needs to be folded over and belted back into the hardware, and you have a slimmer, more cohesive look. It’s also worth pointing out that with this watch, the passthrough of the NATO strap also obstructs one’s view of the gorgeous in-house, Geneva Seal-certified calibre 4400 AS inside.
So, when is a NATO strap acceptable?
The motorsports-focused Omega Speedmaster Super Racing comes mounted on a NATO as standard, which makes sense.
In my opinion, this is where the backstory and utility of a NATO strap are key. The NATO strap, though often far less expensive and glamorous, has the distinct benefit of being a secure enough strap where, if one of the spring bars were to pop off the case, the watch would not be lost in the depths of the ocean, nor in the trenches of the battlefield or the cockpit of a race car. Therefore, I would say that a NATO strap is only acceptable on a watch that you would (or theoretically could) wear in active, strenuous scenarios in which there is cause for concern that the watch could pop off your wrist. That is the scenario in which the added bulk and architecture of a NATO make sense, both aesthetically and ergonomically.
The Rolex Explorer II, a model designed to be a rugged travel watch, looks at home on this Bark & Jack NATO strap (available from the Time+Tide Shop).
Many of you will probably find the above declaration too romantic or over-the-top, but I would counter that the NATO is an over-the-top choice for a dressy watch when there are plenty of fabric/textile straps now available that can deliver the casual aura without all the added bulk and hardware. Again, I am not saying my answer is the right answer; it is just my answer.