Istria – with its sleepy fishing villages, azure waters, and verdant hills of truffle, olive, and vine – is still, miraculously, under the radar. Straddling both Mediterranean and Balkan identity, this pointed peninsula makes for not only a perfect Tuscan rival, but for a softer, more refined counterpart to the tourist-soaked Dalmatian coast.
Luckily, a raft of new flight routes from UK airports have pushed open the floodgates, as have a new wave of design-forward hotels, farm-to-fork restaurants, and coastal hideaways. Put simply, Istria is now very much a contender for a worthy weekend getaway for those based in Europe or a tack-on to a longer Balkans jaunt, though bear in mind that such isolated, abundant beauty comes at a slight cost in terms of public transport infrastructure (more on how to get around below).
The small scale and easy roads of the region mean that a typical Istrian day can kick off with some truffle hunting among the inland hills of Motovun, or Buzet, before twisting into a lunchtime snorkel down along the craggy coasts. By sunset, you’re in the quaint old towns of Rovinj, or Porec, sipping crisp Malvazija and wondering where on earth the day went.
Somehow, this place has managed to stay simultaneously refined, yet wild; relaxed, yet always on the move, boasting more cyclists than seagulls, and as many outdoors enthusiasts as there are cashmere clad couples on catamarans.
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FAQ:
What’s the best way to get to Istria?
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While there are no direct flights from the US to Pula, it’s easily reached via a connection through major European hubs like Frankfurt, Munich, or London. From there, regional carriers like Croatia Airlines operate short flights directly into Pula Airport. Likewise, easyJet has expanded its Croatian reach, with returns from Pula to London starting from around £48 per person. For those happy to pair the trip with a scenic drive, Venice Marco Polo Airport – served by direct flights from New York, Boston, and Chicago – is just a two-and-a-half-hour drive away from the Istrian border, making it a popular entry point for international travellers, and an ace roadtrip en route.
What’s the best way to get around Istria?
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With the region’s dual geography of coast and grove, a rental car is must, with providers like Kayak offering up a Croat car for as little as £32 a day. In terms of pick-up points, Pula Airport is the most convenient choice if flying directly, and boasts several international hire desks. As above, if landing in Italy, many travellers opt to grab a car in Venice, or Trieste, and drive over the border into Croatia. This route offers sweeping sea views, and drops you directly into Istria’s hilltop villages, and vineyards – a no brainer.
Where to eat in Istria
Istria has long been associated with gastronomy of the purest kind, with a deep, quasi-religious focus on the purity of olives, grapes, and the ever-elusive truffle. It’s not surprising then, that the entire region is littered with high-quality eateries, from Michelin stars to local taverns (referred to as konobas) all offering a slice of the landscape in one place. The highest concentration of superstar eats is in and around the fashionable fishing town of Rovinj, home to Croatia’s first Michelin-starred restaurant, Monte. However, for a more casual bite, head to Puntulina, built into the cliff-face, so close to the spray that the Adriatic anchovies may as well jump straight out of the sea and onto the plate. Set within the Grand Park Hotel, Cap Aureo is world-class fine dining with a difference. In chef Jeffrey Vella’s dishes, flavour and seasonality are king (such as his life-affirming cauliflower ‘three-ways’ starter), with welcome flair and understated theatrics.
A little further south, in the placid olive groves of Bale, Meneghetti Restaurant & Bar offers a local menu, gleaned from their own groves and garden, cooked up by 28-year-old wunderkind Ante Miletic. Dishes dance between truffle-topped fuži pastas, Lim Bay oysters, or whatever is budding in the abundant kitchen garden that day. Heading north into the fairytale hill towns of Motovun, Grožnjan, and more, easier offerings can be found in one of the many roadside konobas, with Konoba Stari Podrum’s convivial garden and open grill well worth popping the hazard lights on for.
It’s worth remembering that, for Istrians, wine is almost as big a deal as olive oil – and rightly so. In recent years, both have been cleaning up international awards, and none more so than those of historic winery Kozlović, whose über modern, panoramic tasting room embodies the region’s forward thinking approach, playfully poking out into the ancient, flowing vineyards, and cream fields of Buje.
Where to play in Istria
The joy of Istria is revelling in the mash-up of coast and countryside – and when it comes to play, the place manages to be both relaxed and elemental. Inland, take a dog walk with a difference, at the family run Prodan Tartufi, whose expert snouts (and three generations of human equivalents!) will lead you through the wild, misty hills of Buzet – a town locals say has more truffle dogs than people. It’s worth remembering that nobody leaves Istria without having tasted truffles a hundred ways, from scrambled eggs to ice cream. Beyond hills of so-called ‘Black Gold’ there’s also a handful of serene swimming lakes and waterfalls, such as local spot Zarečki Krov, which is well worth the drive for a lazy lunch.
Down south, surrounding Pula, there’s a wealth of enviable archipelago, islet, and craggy coast to uncover – or at the very least, bask on, lizard-style. For those who like earning a suntan, there’s no better way to take it all in than with a kayak tour around the protected Cape Kamenjak, with its glistening, secluded bays known mostly to locals. Top it off by braving the diving into the grid-ready Kolombarica blue cave which, once inside and when the sun is just right, glows like cut sapphire.
For those chasing more chilled vibes, a private boat excursion out around the 14 protected Brijuni Islands might be the ticket – here Roman ruins, wild deer, and the occasional cresting dolphin compete to become your new lock screen image. In a similar vein, solid pit stops can be had along the coast, from Rovinj’s cobbled old town to those of Poreč and Novigrad, where you’ll forever be drawn through cute slices of limestone alley, back down toward the pure blue sea.
Where to stay in Istria
The Adriatic never looked as good as from the vast terrace of the Grand Park, which hovers above the yacht-filled bay of Rovinj. Croatia’s most stylish stay, this sloping, stone-and-glass marvel is tiered into pine-dotted cliffs. The best rooms overlook Rovinj’s pastel old town, which rises from the sea like a watercolour taped to the easel of one of the many sun-stained artists in the historic centre. Expect exquisite design, low-lit luxury, and a killer spa-and-infinity-pool combo. This place makes everything a moment – from a decadent breakfast to the scent of the surrounding pine forest. Honeymooners, design snobs, and spa-lovers: this one’s for you.