This romantic little hotel of just four generously sized suites dates to 1902 and was formerly the hunting lodge of the king of Yugoslavia. Long a hit with lovebirds, it’s where Prince George proposed to Princess Marina of Greece and Denmark in 1934. Today, couples come here for active breaks, spending their days exploring the delights of the surrounding Julian Alps before returning to relax.

It was reimagined and rebuilt by Slovenian architects Rok Oman and Spela Videcnik in 2024 and seamlessly blends its aristocratic heritage with modern-day comforts — from leaping fires at the press of a button to sleek in-room saunas. Service is informal and unobtrusive, while a fine dining restaurant offers a contemporary take on alpine cuisine with seasonal, locally sourced ingredients. All in all, it makes for a peaceful hideaway after long days spent exploring the gorgeous national park on your doorstep.

Overall score 8/10

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Rooms and suites

Modern bathroom with wooden walls and a spa bath.

Score 9/10
All four suites are a decent size (about 70 sq m) and come with a balcony and mountain views, while two have private saunas. The Prince George and Princess Olga rooms have the best mountain views and partial lakeside vistas. The vibe here is dark yet cosy: timber-lined spaces with soothing lighting and ethanol fireplaces so you can get toasty in no time at all.

Wooden dressing table with mirror in timber-lined room with view into bedroom.

Decoration is kept pretty minimal, although you can expect plenty of faux-fur blankets and the odd set of antlers or vintage skis that hint at the history of the place. In the large bathrooms you’ll find either a sauna, spa bath or freestanding tub complete with Piranske Soline salt from the Slovenian coast to relax tired muscles.

Food and drink

Interior of a gourmet restaurant with wooden beams, a fireplace, and rustic furniture.

Score 8/10
Vila Muhr Gourmet restaurant offers fine dining menus of four or eight courses. Centred around an enormous fireplace, the dining room is full of quirky design elements that give a nod to Slovenian arts and crafts, including handmade ceramics and a large driftwood light fitting. Drinks-wise, there’s a very good cellar with an extensive list of Slovenian wines and international labels. Guests can also book guided tastings with the sommelier to explore the country’s vinous heritage.

Overhead view of a yellow and white dish on a bed of pebbles.

DEAN DUBOKOVIC AND NEJC PERNEK

The decadent breakfast includes many locally sourced ingredients and traditional treats, such as alpine cheeses and potica, a rolled walnut cake.

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What else is there?

St John the Baptist church at Lake Bohinj.

St John the Baptist church at Lake Bohinj

GETTY IMAGES

Score 7/10
Guests have exclusive access each morning to the spa at Hotel Bohinj, the sister property right next door, reached via a secret underground passageway. Free two-hour slots can also be booked throughout the day. Here you’ll find an outdoor massage pool, Finnish and Turkish saunas, and a relaxing salt wall room. A range of paid-for treatments is available, too. At Vila Muhr itself, you can opt for treatments in your room, including a magnesium sports massage that’s a tonic for aching limbs.

There’s no gym or swimming pool, but surrounding the hotel is the Triglav National Park, which offers exceptional walking, kayaking and cycling opportunities, plus paragliding or mountaineering for the more adventurous. Swimming is allowed in Lake Bohinj, too. The ski resort of Vogel can be reached by cable car directly from the lake. Private tours and expert mountain guides can also be arranged by the hotel.

Where is it?

Score 9/10
Vila Muhr is in the lakeside village of Ribcev Laz, five minutes’ walk from the shores of Lake Bohinj. The hotel is about an hour’s drive from Ljubljana airport, and half an hour west of Lake Bled and its famous island church. Slovenia’s compact size makes exploring further afield easy and a driver can be booked by the concierge if you don’t want to bother with a rental car. A couple of Michelin-starred restaurants can be found within an hour’s drive, or closer to home, Foksner serves arguably Slovenia’s best burgers a short stroll from the front door.

Price B&B doubles from £540
Restaurant Four-course menu from £86
Family-friendly Y
Accessible N

Laura Coffey was a guest of Vila Muhr (vilamuhr.si)

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