September is a great month to visit European wine regions, as the holidaymakers are mostly gone, and in September 2023, we spent ten days in Austria cycling along the Danube and visiting heuriger, the pop-up restaurants attached to wineries.
Austrian wines seem particularly suited to Autumn; the tangy, bright reds and peppery crisp whites lift the spirit, but also have an edge to them, September sunshine in a bottle if you will.
Earlier this year, one of Austria’s greatest winemakers Dorli Muhr visited Ireland and did a series of sold-out tastings.
At her tutored trade tasting, we all sat rather rapt, sucking up her insights into everything from yeast, to the soils to her views on the native Austrian grapes (I felt she was a little harsh in her criticism of Zweigelt).
Her focus is Blaufränkisch, of course, with several iterations in her portfolio, often from old vines which she champions (much to the consternation of older neighbouring farmers).
Blaufränkisch is more sensitive to soil than most other grapes, she believes.
On schist it will be elegant and crisp, on loam it will be much rounder and in her rugged limestone Spitzerberg vineyard it is dense but elegant, like silk which is supple and elegant but with tension.
To match her Blaufränkisch, she might bake a fish in salt and serve it with a lightly chilled version, or maybe with slow-cooked beef cheeks – the wine is happy with either.
Three Austrian wines recommended this week, one Dorli Muhr and two from the O’Brien’s Harvest Sale, which runs from September 1 until the end of the month.
Also watch for Fiano di Avellino at €18 (was €22); Ch. de Fleurie at €20; Gaia Agiorgitiko for just €17.50 (was €22); and Piper Heidsieck at €44.
Zull Lust & Laune Grüner Veltliner, Weinviertel, Austria €14.36
Zull Lust & Laune Grüner Veltliner, Weinviertel, Austria €14.36
O’Briens
Zull is family-run with 18ha of vineyards in the Weinviertel, the largest of Austria’s wine regions that stretches from the Danube in the South to the Czech border north of Vienna.
This is a good introduction to Grüner at a great price, crisp and fresh with just a touch of pepper and lots of apple and citrus fruits.
Their Zweigelt and top Grüner are also recommended.
Rabl Pinot Noir, Kamptal, Austria €27
Rabl Pinot Noir, Kamptal, Austria €27
O’Briens
The endless quest to find decent Pinot Noir under €30 continues, although remember that Blaufränkisch offers similar pleasures.
This is reduced from €30 and is making its debut on this page (although I’ve recommended their Grüner before).
Bright red fruit aromas with baked cherries, supple red fruits on the palate and a touch of tangy earthiness and a lot of Pinot pleasure for a very fair price.
Dorli Muhr Carnuntum, Blaufränkisch-Syrah, Austria €29.95
Dorli Muhr Carnuntum, Blaufränkisch-Syrah, Austria €29.95
Bradleys; 1601; Drink Store; 64 Wines; Whelehanswines.ie
Dorli Muhr is the doyenne of Austrian wine and you will find her wines in great restaurants and wine bars like Black Pig, Glass Curtain and Daróg.
Cherry fruit aromas with a touch of forest floor, juicy and soft with blueberry, blackberry and ripe plum and a cherry-skin finish.
Her varietal Spitzerberg Blaufränkisch wines are even better, elegant, thrilling and delicious.
9 White Deer ‘Stag Rua’, 4.2% ABV, 500ml €4.25
9 White Deer ‘Stag Rua’, 4.2% ABV, 500ml €4.25
JJ O’Driscolls; Bradleys; Castle; Martins; McHughs; 9WhiteDeer.ie/shop
9 White Deer (Fía Bán) have been brewing in Ballyvourney in the Múscraí Gaeltacht since 2014 and always worth a mention. Sustainability is a major focus, as is using Irish ingredients.
This is their take on an Irish red ale and uses chocolate and crystal malts which give a caramel and cacao touch to this balanced complex ale.