18 days across Bulgaria – my impressions

It’s been a week since I came back from this trip, emotions have settled down a little bit, so I decided to make small post of appreciation of your beautiful country.

Obviously 20 photos limit is not giving any justice for all the great memories I’ve captured on camera, but I’ve chosen the most memorable ones.

I’ve been to almost every country in the Balkans, but I can safely say that Bulgaria was my absolute favourite (with Montenegro being close second).

From the bustling streets of Sofia to the towering peaks of Rila and Pirin mountains ranges, breathtaking monasteries, through medieval towns, golden beaches on the Black Sea, and unforgettable road trips across mountain passes. This 18-day journey captured the heart of Bulgaria. Along the way, I met incredible travelers who turned into friends, proving that the best part of every adventure isn’t just the places you visit, but the people you share them with.

This trip was planned with very late notice. I just broke up with my partner in the beginning of summer and had 3 weeks off work in August. First time in nearly a decade – traveling solo. I have some friends in Varna who moved back home from Denmark, and one of them mentioned that I should come visit. So I thought why not! (Even if I met them only for 2 out of 18 days). I am an experienced hiker, so after researching hiking possibilities- I was even more convinced that this is the place to spend my summer vacation! I only prebooked the first part of the trip – accommodation in Sofia, Rila and Pirin. Decided to leave space for spontaneous travel plans after that. If anyone is interested, my itinerary looked like this:

Day 1-2 – Sofia. Having cheap direct flights from Copenhagen to Sofia really helped coming here easily. I’ve read many negative opinions about Sofia, but I personally loved the atmosphere and vibe there. As someone who grew up in Lithuania, Sofia reminded me of how my country used to look and feel 15-20 years ago, but in a good nostalgic way. I’ve rented a car (which was the highest expense in this trip considering late notice planning and high season) and started my adventure!

Day 3 – 7 Rila Lakes Hike. It was beautiful but nothing too special, with large crowds of tourists. Then I settled in Borovets – strategically located near my hikes planned for the next days.

Day 4 – Musala peak hike. I’ve skipped the cable car and started the hike from Borovets for extra challenge. 1700m in elevation gain is no joke, even after extensively hiking in the Alps every year. It was a truly amazing hike with incredible scenery and standing on the highest peak in Balkans was a moment to cherish. Especially when at some point I was completely alone on it. Just embracing the power of nature. After going through emotional turmoil and break up – it was so much needed and soul healing.

Day 5 – Rila Monastery. Without a doubt the most beautiful monastery I’ve seen in my life and it will be really hard to beat.

Day 6 – Maliovitza hike. Another tough but rewarding hike. It happened to be a weekend, so quite large crowds, but it didn’t bother me as much as in 7 lakes hike. I also noticed that in the Bulgarian mountains there are very few tourists from abroad – the vast majority of people I’ve met were locals – which is so refreshing after hiking in Switzerland and France where the mountains are full of tourists. (I know.. I am a tourist myself, but it still feels nice to explore less mainstream places)

Day 7 – arrived to Bansko and rested after the previous hikes. Explored the town which is really pretty and cozy. Also did ATV tour which was very exciting – we went through the most challenging terrain, there was no lack of adrenaline for sure.

Day 8 – Vihren peak and Koncheto Ridge. Definitely my favourite hike in Bulgaria.. and one of the best in my life. Again, it was physically challenging, as I’ve had to hike several peaks besides Vihren (Kutelo I & II). Koncheto ridge was truly breathtaking and definitely not for experienced hikers only. Not for someone with fear of heights – one wrong step and you are dead. But I loved the adrenaline rush and extra challenge of navigating through this extremely narrow ridge. The way down to Vihren hut was a grind, but nevertheless – with gorgeous views all around.

Day 9 – Rest day. Bear sanctuary and Banya Pulse Spa. I’ve been to many different SPA’s around the world, but this one had no competition whatsoever. In all aspects it was just perfect.!
Day 10 – Sinanitsa hike. It was supposed to be a chill hike, but still ended up with around 1000m in elevation gain. So worth it though – hiking completely alone through meadows and boulder fields, reaching secluded mountain hut in front of an ancient glacier lake. . . It was my last hike of this trip – and it didn’t disappoint.

Day 11-14 – Plovdiv. My all time favourite city in Bulgaria. And probably in Europe, no joke! The old town feels like walking into a Time Machine to the past. Cobblestone, Merchant houses, Roman ruins and the atmosphere there felt so lovely and welcoming. Kapana was a perfect place to spend every evening! So, initially I planned to stay max 1-2 days in Plovdiv, but while touring it – I’ve met some great fellow travellers and we connected so much that I extended one more day, and we traveled together to the monastery and fortress. Spent the nights just stargazing and watching over the city on Nebet Tepe until 6-7am. Extended one more day. . Afterwards – I was already 2 hours away from Plovdiv – at Buzludzha monument, when I realised – I need to go back for one final night – that’s how strong the connection with the city and people I’ve met was. And that night was the one that has awaken something in me, made me feel so alive. after going through dark times for several months before the trip – it was exactly what I needed. Finished the night at 7am, had 2 hours of sleep afterwards, and it was time to say final goodbye to the people I’ve met. Except for one guy – as we joined forces to continue traveling eastwards.

Day 15 – Veliko Tarnovo. Not much to say – it was a great experience to explore the town and medieval fortress. Got lucky as there was an alternative music festival going on.

Day 16-18 – arrived to Varna and met my friends. It was more about spending the last days with them rather than exploring, but we still did explore for one day. Finally got to swim in the Black Sea and visited an aqua park in Nessebar. I loved the vibe at the east coast, and food was really good. On the way back to Sofia I’ve visited Plovdiv again. For one last night. This time alone. It felt like a proper goodbye to this trip that I will never forget.

благодаря ти, България 🖤🇧🇬