broken lock pictures

14 comments
  1. What a loser! He drilled it then tried to snap it, broke the top bit and then couldn’t get a purchase on it so gave up.

    When it’s replaced make sure that it’s not a cheapo euro cylinder lock or he’ll get in next time. You want anti-snap, anti-bump and drill-proof. The cheap ones don’t have all these features.

  2. Ex locksmith. Sucks mate, seen a few. They drill the barrel (cylinder) and try snap the body.

    Shouldn’t be too bad to open for the locksmith if the T nut is intact.

    You can grab one in any DIY shop. When looking at the side of the door (where the lock bar pokes out, the skinny bit of the door) there’s a realllyyy long screw that is slightly offset from the barrel. Remove it by rotating a key slight to the right around the 2 o’clock position (or left to 10 o’clock if your lock is old as fuck, which it isn’t).[Thus is a good guide. ](https://www.wickes.co.uk/how-to-guides/home-safety-security/fit-replace-door-locks). If that fucker of a locksmith tries to replace the cylinder (the silver bit with iseo on it) and the motice tell him to fuck off. The motice should be grand.

    Measure from the face of the lock, to the screw hole on both sides. Most common is around 40-45 mm. So 40 mm to the screw, then 45mm from screw to back. Takes 5 mins. The profile is euro (shaped like a lollipop, the other type is oval FYI).

    You can get [snap safe](https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-m&biw=360&bih=654&tbm=isch&sxsrf=APq-WBsfiszWs9DWwldeqRa52duFoOa4rQ%3A1651004317658&sa=1&q=snap++door+locks&oq=snap++door+locks&aqs=mobile-gws-lite..0l5#imgrc=RZelZjfpMFXmTM) so if they come back it’ll beak in the door and they can’t do shit. You can still open the door most of the time using a few pins.

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