Half of a hard-boiled egg tops sliced radish and pear with cucumber and seasoned, sliced pollock over cold noodles at Naeongmyeon Jangin Limsaboo in Pyeongtaek, South Korea. (Yoojin Lee/Stars and Stripes)
On top of boiled noodles and icy cold broth, slices of radish, cucumber and a boiled egg decorate a dish enjoyed by people sweltering under Korea’s scorching summer heat.
The first spoonful of icy broth is refreshing. The perfectly chewy noodles with crisp radish make the dish even more flavorful.
Labor Day has come and gone, signaling the seasons’ turn from summer to fall, but the lingering summer heat continues to summon an appetite for cold noodles.
The restaurant — Naeongmyeon Jangin Limsaboo, Pyeongtaek Vision Branch — is next to Baedari Ecological Park, one of the largest green spaces in Pyeongtaek. With a reservoir and a library, the restaurant is a popular destination for families on weekends. While eating, I heard several delivery calls coming in, even though it was a weekday.
Cold noodles are always served with vinegar and mustard on the side, along with scissors.
You can add vinegar and mustard to taste, but soups that don’t need either are considered the best. Before eating, we often cut the noodles in half to make them easier to grab with chopsticks. The toppings vary, from slices of boiled beef or pork to marinated fish.
Cold noodles in a broth with hardboiled egg, radish, cucumber, pear and seasoned pollock from Naeongmyeon Jangin Limsaboo in Pyeongtaek, South Korea. (Yoojin Lee/Stars and Stripes)
There are mainly two big types of cold noodles, Pyongyang and Hamheung, both named after cities in North Korea.
Pyongyang uses buckwheat-based noodles, famous for its mild and slightly bland taste, whereas Hamheung uses potato-starch noodles that are more translucent and chewier, and the soup has stronger flavor.
When Mount Kumgang tourism was still available in North Korea, Pyongyang-style cold noodles were served as part of the trip, reflecting the city’s culinary tradition.
The slushy broth — boiled with beef, green onion, garlic and radish — is poured over the noodles to keep the soup cold until the last bite. This unique method of preparing the broth leaves it clear, not greasy, despite the presence of meat.
After boiling the noodles, they are immediately drained and rinsed under cold water to maintain their springy texture.
The main ingredients of the tangy noodles — buckwheat and potato — are harvested in fall, hence cold noodles traditionally are winter food. Buckwheat was a cheap, easily grown grain before rice and wheat were widely available in the country.
“Dongguksesigi,” a traditional book from 1849 that describes seasonal customs in Korea, depicts cold noodles as a winter dish. The main ingredient, radish water kimchi, is in season and without ice or refrigeration, was difficult to preserve in summer.
Cold noodles are also a very popular hangover food. The icy, refreshing broth helps to calm and hydrate our body, and with its sweet and sour taste it whets the appetite. Buckwheat is also known to aid digestion, making it even more effective as a hangover remedy.
Naeongmyeon Jangin Limsaboo, Pyeongtaek Vision Branch
Location: Bijeon 9-gil 2-32, Pyeongtaek, Gyeonggi-do, South Korea
Directions: A 20-minute drive from the Millet Gate at Camp Humphreys, South Korea.
Hours: Open daily, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., but closed 3 p.m. to 5 p.m.
Prices: 10,000 won to 15,000 won
Dress: Casual
Information: 0507-1473-2039; no English menu