Arancini – breaded and fried risotto ball stuffed with eggplant – are a specialty at Treviso Vermont in Rutland. Courtesy photo via the Community News ServiceMadelyn Nonni is a reporter with Community News Service, part of the University of Vermont’s Reporting & Documentary Storytelling program.
After something of a drought of Italian restaurants in downtown Rutland, recently opened Treviso Vermont is aiming to showcase its hospitality and family values through modern, unique dishes.
In July, Treviso opened its doors to customers after remodeling the old Table 24 location at 24 Wales St.
For owner Michelle Erickson, it was all about the space feeling right. After looking at a variety of placements between Rutland and Killington, she knew she always loved the location when Table 24 was in business.
“I had a lease in my hand for another place that was on Killington. I drove down Wales Street, and I said to my partner, ‘Let’s just go look at it.’ We walked through, and we just knew that this was where we wanted to be,” she said.
Set out to create a restaurant close to home, the name Treviso is a nod to Erickson’s grandmother — her Nonna — from Treviso, Italy.
Erickson, a first-generation Italian American, spent the majority of her childhood with her grandmother — specifically cooking and learning from her.
“Her food was just amazing. She always made really nutritious, delicious Italian food. That’s what I grew up eating. There’s this whole perception of what Italian food is. It’s a giant plate of pasta, and it’s not traditionally how Italians eat. It’s very vegetable-dense, a little pasta and protein. That’s how I grew up eating,” Erickson said.
Erickson’s business partner and head chef at the restaurant, Mike Ronzino, is a second-generation Italian American and is closely tied to his heritage by food. He said that with Treviso, he is making dishes that are different but still have some traditional charm.
“Some of it is riffs on classics. It’s just figuring out unique Italian ingredients and how I can utilize them. It’s meant to be playful. I did a mortadella sandwich, but as an Uncrustable. There’s a classic dish, vitello tonnato, which is veal and tuna sauce, that’s with the arancini we have on. I’m trying to reimagine and approach it a little different,” Ronzino said.
Treviso pastry chef Andrea Tardvella prepares some desserts recently. Photo by Madelyn Nonni/Community News Service
He also mentioned exciting menu options featuring their linguini dish with an artichoke and chopped clam sauce, and experimenting with desserts, specifically their panna cotta.
Treviso said it isn’t just about food — it’s also about their sense of family within the walls of the restaurant.
“We’re in the hospitality business. It extends to being hospitable to each other. The way that our staff treats each other, the way that we treat our staff, even the way we treat our guests, it’s all part of that,” Erickson said.
Erickson and Ronzino discussed how easily burnout happens, as well as turmoil between front and back of house, but they said they are aiming to create a welcoming environment for their employees without the high-stress culture often defined in the industry.
Consultant chef Nevin Perry has been on the project since the spring with Erickson and Ronzino, helping it come to life. He said kitchens usually have a lot of anger in them, but Treviso has the complete opposite.
“Everybody works so well together. It’s a huge team effort here. I’ve worked in tons of restaurants, and this is one of the best ones I’ve ever worked at. We’re like such a close-knit group,” Perry said.
Chef Octavio Cueva feels the same and said communication and energy can only elevate the work experience for the staff.
“Good energy definitely travels forward for sure. Also, negative energy, that’s why we’re always trying to stay positive. We’re always happy and singing, and dancing. But when it’s time to get to work, it’s time to get to work. Besides that, good energy, good flow,” Cueva said.
Treviso owner Michelle Erickson poses outside of her new restaurant. Courtesy photo via the Community News Service
After closing on the downtown location in November, Erickson said she never had any expectations for Treviso, but Rutland has shown up for them since opening. She encourages everyone to give the eatery a try.
“I really wanted to focus on the food and an environment where anybody could come. So if you just got out of work and you’ve got jeans and your boots on, I want you to come sit at the bar, come sit at a table. It’s your anniversary? Come sit at the bar, come sit at a table,” she said.
Looking toward the future, Erickson said creating a hospitality group is a goal Ronzino and Erickson have, including finding the right executive chef to take over the kitchen, allowing Ronzino to take a step back and focus on being a creative vision for the restaurant.
“We have goals in the future to do something, but right now, we’re just really focused on this project because if this doesn’t pan out or isn’t successful, there is no future project. So far, so good,” Erickson said.