When London’s newest Mayfair restaurant opened two weeks ago, it was more than just the start of another business venture for the Maltese family behind it.
“We’d been aiming towards this for around 15 years. It had always been our dream to open a London restaurant,” said db Group chairperson Silvio Debono of the company’s contemporary Japanese restaurant Aki London.
“Opening a restaurant in London makes us very proud because this is one of the most competitive food hotspots in the world. It took us a while to get here but now we are confident we have what it takes to do something truly successful,” he said.
“My hope is that every Maltese person can share that sense of pride with us.”
The Marylebone eatery opened its doors at the end of last month to much fanfare, hitting the headlines even before it officially opened when it hosted the birthday celebrations of model Romeo Beckham, son of football legend David Beckham.
Prime Minister Robert Abela cuts the ribbon on the occasion of the restaurant’s official opening.Prime Minister Robert Abela cut the ribbon to officially open the restaurant in what also marked the Debono family’s first international venture – one for which they have clearly spared no expense.
The company says renovation work at the property – overseen by Maltese designer Francis Sultana – cost just over €17 million and followed a year of property scouting in London by the group.
Housed inside a Grade II-listed former banking building on London’s Cavendish Square, Aki’s restaurant boasts high ceilings, elegant detailing, comfortable seating booths and customised lighting displays.
Meanwhile, underneath the restaurant, Aki is home to a nightclub – still under construction when Times of Malta visited the property – and a bar.
It is the art on display at Aki, however, that its proprietors were keen to emphasise, organising a tour of the works with curator Polina Sulina.
Art curator Polina Sulina“Art is about connecting cultures,” said Sulina, standing beside Ryan Gander’s A machine to send you somewhere else installation work; a steel panel that prints receipts with unique GPS coordinates to randomly selected locations.
Likening art’s connectivity to Aki’s menu – which, while firmly rooted in Japanese cuisine includes Maltese staples such as rabbit and fennel – Sulina emphasised the eclectic offerings on display.
Aki’s collection includes works by established and up-and-coming artists, including Venice Biennale alumni, she noted, pointing out wall-mounted pieces in the main eating area, a hanging piece in the stairwell and even a delicate porcelain work in a glass case outside the downstairs bathrooms.
‘Kyoto farm-to-plate’
While most visitors will likely be intrigued by the works on display, it is Aki’s food that is the main attraction and which did not disappoint; a sample revealed an inventive and well-crafted menu, prepared by chefs in the restaurant’s exposed kitchen.
Ryan Gander’s A machine to send you somewhere else (2025) installation work, located close to Aki London’s entrance.Highlights included a tuna tartare dish served on a block of ice – a fun detail that did not feel gimmicky – and Umeboshi (pickled plums). The grilled and salted edamame starter, while sounding simple, was a delight.
As well as a wine selection, the restaurant boasts an impressive sake collection, sourced from artisanal producers across Japan.
Meanwhile, db Group global culinary director Paul Greening emphasised Aki London’s natural credentials (a “Kyoto farm-to-plate model”), noting the absence of genetically modified or pesticide-treated ingredients, while claiming that upgrades to the restaurant’s on-site vertical farming facilities promise to speed up vegetable production to within two weeks.
Daniel Knorr’s Gold Flag CS 039 (2022)Staff were attentive, friendly and knowledgeable about the culinary offerings on display, while a resident DJ spun electronic music in the background.
The music could have been a little quieter, as it made group conversations across the table more difficult.
Expansion
The Mayfair restaurant follows Aki Malta, which opened in Valletta in 2020, with some staff members from Malta travelling to London to help with the opening of Aki London.
On the UK expansion of the brand, db Group director Robert Debono said that “after establishing Aki as a success story in Valletta, it is inspiring to see a Maltese-born brand resonate so strongly in London… placing Malta firmly on London’s culinary map.”
Kapwani Kiwanga’s Canopy (2023)Asked why db Group had not opted to open a Maltese restaurant, Debono indicated the choice was foremost a business decision, noting that “Asian food – and especially fusion – is very popular here [in London]”.
Sushi prices range from under £10 to £60 while larger dishes start from £24, with offerings of Japan’s signature Wagyu beef ranging from £45 to £150. With drinks, one could easily expect to pay over £100 per person, making Aki London pricey – but not out of reach.
And while, in the context of rising inequality – especially in London – some may question the sensitivity of opening a high-end establishment in an area already crammed with offerings for wealthier patrons, Aki London undoubtedly marks a significant step for those in Malta’s business community seeking ventures overseas.
James Cummings was hosted in London by db Group, which covered the costs of the trip.