Climate change forces Bordeaux winery to reclassify its wines

Something is always happening in the vast world of wine.

Climate Change continues to have its impact felt in various ways. Recently, Chateau Lafleur, one of the top wineries in Pomerol in Bordeaux announced that it would no longer produce wines under the Pomerol or Bordeaux classifications, but would instead be simply a “Vin de France.” Considering that the classification and rules regarding the production of wine in Bordeaux originated in 1865, this is a bold step.

The strict limitations under the classification guidelines don’t allow producers to pivot quickly enough in this time of significant climate impact.  Issues regarding “irrigation restrictions, planting densities, and permitted grape varieties have been hotly debated in Bordeaux as producers adapt to the hotter, drier conditions that characterised 2022 and on-going 2025,” Britain’s Decanter magazine reports.

While there has been some allowance for wineries to introduce varietals from hotter weather regions into the Bordeaux mix, any change in regulations seems to be too slow, according to the Guinaudeau family, which owns Chateau Lafleur. They are quoted as writing that they will now be able to implement new practices that will protect the “traditional and longstanding qualities of their vineyards and wines so that they can ‘change to remain the same.”

In news closer to home, there has been a huge judgment handed down in a lawsuit between wineries and the County on the Old Mission Peninsula next to Traverse City.

The wineries wanted to be able to expand their businesses to include the possibilities of having restaurants and perhaps concert spaces. They also wanted to include grapes grown beyond the Peninsula in their winemaking, as there simply isn’t enough supply to meet the demand.

Arguing that they didn’t want the agricultural nature of the Peninsula to be threatened, the County originally wouldn’t budge on anything, including its mandate that 85% of the fruit had to be grown on the Peninsula.. At one point, there was a meeting that seemed to reach a compromise, but after one citizens group rose up in opposition, the county reneged.

While one group of residents opposed the wineries’ requests, other farmers supported them.  According to WCMU in October, 2021, farmer Mark Santucci said “There is a symbiotic relationship between the farmers and the wineries. I see the future of this peninsula, whether some of us want it to be or not, if you want to maintain the farms, there has to be agro-tourism as part of the farming operations.”

The animosity on the part of the County was apparent prior to the trial when, at one time Chateau Grand Traverse was going to hold a fundraiser for a local school teacher who was quite ill.  The county Clerk called the day of the event to say that they didn’t have a permit. When owner Ed O’Keefe replied that there would be fewer than 75 people and so they didn’t need a permit, the clerk replied, “Well, we’ll see about that,” and warned, “If it exceeds 75 people, we will know about it.” 

When one of the owners went to the county Office and asked to speak with the clerk, the secretary went into the office, then came out and said, “Make an appointment.” Up and down the line, it appeared that the County had dug in its heels and that was it.

After Judge Paul Maloney had struck down the limitation on grapes and the ban against amplified music, the County revised many of the contentious elements of the pertaining ordinance in 2022. But the case continued, as the wineries contended that there had been significant costs to their operations prior to this.

During the trial, the wineries presented testimony that the judge found reasonable and compelling – the County basically presented no case, it seemed.

In July, Judge Maloney issued a 75-page opinion and awarded nearly 50 million dollars in damages to the wineries – and this doesn’t even cover the wineries’ court costs. The county is appealing.

Meanwhile, the County Board is exploring what to do –their insurer is balking at its liability. It doesn’t appear that the Board is prepared to be conciliatory with some members, “defiant” and saying that the current board was not at fault for what happened…we can imagine how that stance would play out in court.

There has been no indication that the wineries are prepared to compromise, though you would hope that, if they all have to live together, they would do better to get along.

When you go over the books, however, and consider what the County’s incalcitrance may have cost the wineries over the years, reconciliation may come at a price.

We will just have to watch to see how this ultimately plays out.

Vintages Wines

White

Dr. L Riesling 2024, $17.95, from Ernst Loosen in the Mosel region of Germany, is a popular, yummy and off–dry white wine with 41 grams of sugar per litre, but that is balanced by a delicious citrus streak on the finish. Expect notes of apple and pear, and even a dash of pineapple!

Il Poggio Falanghina del Sannio 2023, $18.95 is a white wine from Campania near Naples. The Wine Enthusiast tells us that ”Aromas of sun-soaked stones add warmth to an otherwise fresh, light nose of lemon slices, white peaches and raw almonds. The palate offers a salted lemon element, before white tea with honey brings out sweeter fruit notes, even as bright acid and undertones of almond skin provide balance.” – 91.

Bachelder L’Ardoise Niagara Chardonnay 2023, $25.95, “is a dry, medium-bodied wine sourced from some of the oldest vineyards in the Niagara Peninsula. Reflecting its name, ‘The Slate,’ this wine carries the essence of the region’s ancient limestone and shale soils. Fermented and aged in barrels, it’s vibrant and fresh with a bouquet of honeysuckle, ripe yellow apple, and pear, complemented by vanilla and a silky touch of cinnamon. The creamy texture and flinty mineral finish make it a perfect pairing with roast chicken or grilled swordfish. This elegant Chardonnay, crafted by Thomas Bachelder, is a true showcase of Niagara’s terroir.” – 91. (nataliemaclean.com,

Red

Tagaro Cinquenoci Primitivo 2021, $18.95, is a good option for the popular Primitivo wines from Puglia in Italy. Expect “sweet spices and some dried fruit to the nose. Cloves, smoked herbs and vanilla, too. Tight and creamy tannins give structure to the medium- to full-bodied palate before a juicy, berry-fruit finish. Nicely drinkable.” – 92, jamessuckling.com.

Domaine Brunely Cairanne 2022, $18.95 – this red comes from Vaucluse in the Rhone in southeast France. Calling it savoury with juicy blackberries and “almost old-fashioned in its enjoyable rustic edge,” Decanter.com scored it 90.

Volcanes de Chile Tectonia Syrah 2020, $24.95, John Szabo of winealign.com picked this as his “if I could buy only one” wine from the October 11 release. He tells us that wines from “the Valle de Limari are wines of particular saltiness, pungent aromatics and humming energy… you’ll enjoy this savoury, smoky, flavourful, earthy and peppery syrah with ample palate presence. Plenty to admire here; drink or hold into the early 2030s.”

Available online is José Maria da Fonseca Anticiclone 2022, $13.95, from Portugal, which in 2024 was #66 on the Wine Spectator’s “Top 100” wines. I am not quite sure of how this wine made the list, but it does match up to the description provided of carrying notes of black cherry, espresso, tobacco and graphite. The Wine Spectator suggest this wine will drink well through 2029. If you spend $50 online, shipment to the store of your choice is free.