South Korea travel: ‘I ordered dinner for one, and 24 plates came out’: The surprise and delight of eating in South Korea

When I walked into a near-empty restaurant in Gyeongju, South Korea, there was nothing to indicate I was in for one of the more memorable meals of my life.

I had my heart set on trying ssambap, a dish of lettuce wraps with various fillings that had been recommended by my local InsideAsia guide, and ordered the only solo-diner option on the menu.

Moments later, the plates started coming. And coming. And coming.

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The meal so enormous, I couldn’t fit it all in one photo. (Supplied)

I was soon surrounded by 24 dishes. A bewildered glance around the room confirmed this veritable buffet of leaves, meats, rice, soups, seaweed, sauces, vegetables and pickles was, indeed, all for me.

A bigger surprise came at closing time when, defeated, I got up to leave. The owner gestured for me to retake my seat, promptly joining me.

Without a word she began spoon-feeding me, shovelling food in at a pace that made breathing an afterthought, before sending me off with a smile and a squeeze of the arm.

That warm, unexpected encounter became a favourite memory of my trip, and reflected a reality of travelling in South Korea: prepare to be very, very full.

Food is a vital part of the culture here; there’s even a common Korean greeting that translates to “Have you eaten?”

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If you’re heading to South Korea, it is wise to pack a second stomach for the amazing food you’ll eat. (Supplied)

From street food and convenience store buys to entire alleys of restaurants all specialising in the same one dish, eating is going to dominate your itinerary – and you truly have to make peace with knowing you can’t try everything. 

Here are some of the epicurean experiences I am still daydreaming about weeks after returning home.

Cheap and cheerful

I’m sure South Korea is full of incredible fine-dining establishments, but I felt no urge to seek them out.

Pork bone soup, bibimbap and, of course, the fried chicken – some of the meals that won’t break the budget. (Supplied)Tteokbokki is even more satisfying when you cook it yourself! (Supplied)

There was already so much joy in sampling local delights in more low-key venues – pork bone soup in a tiny, crowded market restaurant; noodles in a mum-and-pop joint as the owner sat at the next table, playing games on his phone; sendobu-jigae in a roadside diner; tteokbokki cooked yourself, hotpot-style.

The fanciest I got was a mouth-watering spread at MapleTree House, a well-known Korean barbeque chain in Seoul.

Barbecue is a must. (Supplied)

These meals were all generously-sized – most coming with banchan, ie unlimited side dishes like kimchi and pickled daikon – and absolutely delicious, and the most I paid for a single meal was around $18, with most coming in far cheaper.

For a budget-conscious traveller, that’s a gift.

Street eats and food market heaven

Street food is a favourite for a reason, and you won’t have to look hard to find it.

Vendors are everywhere in touristy neighbourhoods like Seoul’s Myeongdong, but they’re also dotted far and wide. 

Glazed-fried chicken with tteokbokki (rice cakes) and hotteok, a pancake filled with honey, nuts and seeds, were personal standouts – and, of course, I couldn’t resist a soft serve that measured 30cm upright.

You’d be smiling too if you were handed a soft serve taller than your head. (Supplied)Save some space in your appetite for street food. (Supplied)

Visiting a traditional food market is also worthwhile to catch a glimpse of how locals cook and eat at home.

In Seoul and Busan, my local guides took me to markets where residents stock up on fresh produce, pantry ingredients and the staple side dishes that form their weeknight dinners, grabbing a fishcake to snack on as they shop.

If you’re in Busan, don’t miss the famous Jagalchi seafood market – if only to admire the sheer variety (and in many cases, enormous size) of the catches on offer.

Markets are a great way to get a glimpse into local food culture and habits. (Supplied)A whole new world of convenience stores

South Korea’s convenience stores are a wonderland for trying local snacks.

I had a ball browsing wacky chip and ice cream flavours and grab-and-go bites (vacuum-sealed steamed chicken breast, anyone?), and got hooked on the internet-famous banana milk coffee, mixing one up in-store each morning.

The South Korean convenience store banana coffee is a viral sensation for a reason. (Supplied)

That’s the other thing: the vibe is so different to Australia, where you’re rarely inside a convenience store for more than a minute before continuing on your way.

Communal dining is part of the experience. You’ll always find a counter with stools – if not an entire seating section – equipped with a microwave and hot water dispenser so customers can prepare the hot drinks, instant meals or noodles they’ve just bought and enjoy them side-by-side with strangers. Make sure you join them.

From meat snacks to treats in flavours you won’t find here – find a 7-Eleven and go to town. (Supplied)Coffee even Aussies won’t complain about

These days, we Aussie tourists have a reputation for whingeing about the state of coffee overseas. But South Korea’s café culture could humble even the biggest snob.

Coffee is a big, big deal, with café-roasteries found everywhere, selling really good brews. I especially enjoyed the signature at Busan’s Momos Coffee – a cube of homemade orange-peel sugar dissolved in espresso and milk – and lattes topped with meringue-like flavoured foams. 

South Korea’s coffee and cafe culture gives Australia’s a run for its money. (Supplied)

To boot, cafes are often gorgeously designed and offer mouth-watering baked goods, like the famous salt bread.

However, most don’t open until after 10am (even midday!), so you’ll need to rely on convenience stores and chains like Mega Coffee if you need caffeine before then.

Cool bites

In summer and early autumn, South Korea is uncomfortably hot and humid – and a sizzling spicy meal is often the last thing you feel like. But you won’t go hungry.

Cue, two dishes that saved me in my sweatiest moments: ice-cold noodles and bingsu.

A bowl of ice-cold noodles will help you cope in the sweltering heat. (Supplied)Bingsu is so delicious, you’ll barely notice the brain-freeze. (Supplied)

Mul naengmyeon, noodles in a slushie-like iced broth topped with veggies and an egg, was a revelation on a balmy evening, while bingsu, milk-based shaved ice served with toppings like fruit or sweet red beans and syrup, is an essential dessert.

You will underestimate how cold it is, and it will give you brain-freeze, but it’s absolutely worth it.

The writer travelled as a guest of InsideAsia Tours.