An Italian Living Like a Local in Old Jing’an

With nearly four decades behind the stove, Filippo Murari is a Verona-born chef whose life and career bridge Italy and China with rare ease. He now runs two Italian restaurants in Shanghai’s Jing’an District, a neighborhood that mirrors his own philosophy of blending heritage with modern life. A self-described “son-in-law of China,” Filippo has built not only a business but a home here, embracing the rhythms of old Jing’an – its street food, markets, and community life – while continuing to share the flavors, memories, and generosity of his Italian roots.

Could you introduce the neighborhood you live in?

I live in what’s known as old Jing’an, about 1.5 kilometers from Jing’an Temple. It’s an incredibly lively area, full of restaurants, bars, and small shops. That energy is exactly why I opened my first restaurant, Ragu Spuntino, here – it reflects the rhythm of everyday life in this part of the city.

What’s the best thing about living in this neighborhood?

Everything I need is right here. My friends live nearby, and we often run into each other without planning – just like when I was younger. To me, this area represents the real, living China: modern yet deeply connected to its past. It’s the Shanghai I dreamed of experiencing when I was young.

What attraction here should not be missed?

Jing’an Temple is, of course, the must-visit. But as a chef, I’m especially drawn to traditional Chinese street food. Small noodle shops, dumpling stalls, and baozi vendors make me feel like I’m on holiday every day, constantly feeding my curiosity about food.

Each person may have but they all want a great cafe. What’s your favorite cafe near home?

As an Italian, my heart belongs to Coffee Moka by Bialetti – the iconic brand found in every Italian home. I use it both at home and in my restaurants. The sound of the Moka pot boiling is part of my daily ritual, bringing back memories of my school days and filling me with nostalgia every time.

Where should someone eat around here?

Shengjianbao from Yang Dumpling (1440 Xinzha Rd 新闸路1440号) is my absolute favorite – crispy on the outside, juicy on the inside, and always eaten carefully because it’s piping hot. I also love xiaolongbao, and in my opinion, Din Tai Fung (LG189, 288 Shimen Rd No. 1 石门一路288号LG189) does them best. And of course, I would recommend my own Italian street food shop, Ragu (176 Jiaozhou Rd 胶州路176号), where we serve authentic Italian street food like handmade meatball cones and panzerotto – a deep-fried dough filled with tomato and mozzarella that takes me straight back to my school years in Italy.

From high fashion to emerging designers, from flowers to fresh products, where do you shop in your neighborhood?

I often shop at local markets for fresh ingredients such as Wanxin Market (1980 Xinzha Rd 新闸路1980号). I enjoy chatting with the vendors – it makes me feel like a local. These markets are where you truly experience daily life in China, and they’re full of energy, authenticity, and human connection.

Is there a neighborhood place you recommend for a night out or simply a drink after work?

There are many places I enjoy. Sometimes I like to be alone – to decompress after a hectic day. I might have a jar of sake with salmon sushi at a small Japanese shop 令合欣屋 (1073 Wuding Rd 武定路1073号) or stop by a nearby dumpling place. Other times, I visit friends at their shops, where we catch up in Italian dialect and talk about what’s happening in the city.

Have you made any new discoveries in your neighborhood lately?

Yes. Through my wife, who is a member of the Communist Party, I’ve discovered how present community care is in daily life. I’ve participated in many neighborhood initiatives throughout the year – from visiting elderly residents during Chinese New Year to sharing Italian pizza and panettone with them. I’ve also volunteered during summer holidays, teaching children about the Italian language and food culture. Today, I’m proud to be an international volunteer and cultural representative, sharing my experiences and stories in China.