When it comes to wine rules, I am far from a purist. I believe that white wines can pair well with barbecued meats, and that expensive bottles aren’t always better. But until a recent trip to Vienna, I drew the line at watering down wine. Austrians love mixing light wines like young Welschrieslings with sparkling water to create a refreshing drink called a spritzer. Although the idea seemed sacrilegious, I decided to at least give the spritzer a chance. When in Rome, do as the Romans do. (Coincidentally, ancient Romans did add water to their wine). 

My first impression was not very positive. The drink seemed plain and underwhelming — quite literally, watered-down wine. And yet, by the end of the trip, I had been fully convinced that Austrians are geniuses, and that we should all be drinking spritzers. To get here, I first had to understand Austria’s relationship with wine.

While some drink wine to appreciate a finely crafted product, others do it to simply relax or to share good times with loved ones. The latter is what Austrians seek when they order spritzers. Leisure is cherished in the country, and locals often spend entire afternoons drinking coffee, wine, or both. In this context, it’s ideal to be able to drink a lot without actually getting drunk. This is where the spritzer comes in. By adding water, Austrians can drink continuously for hours without losing control or dealing with hangovers. They’ve effectively won the game.

Enjoying spritzers in Austria

Because spritzers are an integral part of Austrian wine culture, they can be easily found throughout the country. Cafes usually have them on the menu, so you can enjoy the common dining experience in Europe of sitting down for hours rather than rushing through your meal. Order a cup of coffee, followed by a glass (or five) of spritzer.

Another perfect place to try spritzers is at a Buschenschank or Heuriger, traditional wine taverns that often serve home-cooked meals and house wines. These cozy taverns act as community gathering spots where afternoons start with a carafe of white wine and a carafe of sparkling water. Each person then mixes both drinks in their glass to their liking. It was at one of these spots, the Fuhrgassl-Huber Winery and Wine Tavern, that I came around to the idea of the spritzer. As I enjoyed a good conversation while eating schnitzel and apple strudel, I sipped my glass and thought that I could happily spend the rest of the day right there. The spritzer relaxed my body without making me fuzzy or slow. It was the best part of alcohol without the negative side effects. I was a convert.

Like Austrians, I wouldn’t add water to high-quality or full-bodied wines. But when I want to sit in my yard basking in the sun, I’ll pour a young white wine and, without flinching, add some sparkling water. I might even start infusing my white wine with herbal tea for added flavor.