By Rafaela von Bredow
The village of Itzlings has turned out for St. Martin’s Day, that festival of light and generosity celebrated in Europe on November 11. For tourists who make their way to Germany’s Alpine foothill region of Allgäu, the town looks to be right out of a kitschy postcard: rolling hills, a whitewashed chapel, green meadows with grazing deer. Snow-covered peaks on the horizon.