The European Capital That Hasn’t Been Ruined by Influencers

If you are looking for a destination to discover without the cheat codes of TikTok, Riga may be the answer.

The imposing structure of the Freedom Monument is my first memory of Riga. A 42.7-meter obelisk towers over the Old Town, with a woman carrying three stars above her head. The monument—funded by the public—was unveiled in 1935 and represents the Latvian struggle for independence. Ninety years later, another woman from a colonized country looked up to Milda in a world that offered more liberties to some, while others still fought oppression, much closer geographically than anyone would have imagined.

Earlier, travelers formed their idea of a European holiday with the regulars: Paris, London, Amsterdam, Rome or Barcelona. But increasingly, people are traveling to destinations to find something new and extraordinary. Amidst this shift, Latvia is having a moment. I discovered Riga once I had crossed all the regulars from the list–I wonder what my idea of Europe would have been if I had started with the destination that I had never seen in movies or read about in books.

Retracing Riga

Riga inspired poetry in a cynic. It reminded me of a Hindi word I had forgotten: thehraav. Roughly translated, it means stillness, but the meaning is much more spiritual with calmness at its core. Riga allowed me the space for quiet contemplation that I reserve for flights. A week in the country was a full exhale after the matrix of overstimulation that is otherwise modern life.

Freedom MonumentUldis Laganovskis

But it wasn’t always this calm. The region was invaded over and over again: German crusaders, Polish-Lithuanians, Swedes, and Russians all struggled to assert dominance before Latvia claimed independence in 1919. It was a whiff of freedom before the Russians occupied it just before World War II, then Nazi-Germany invaded, and then the country became a part of the Soviet Union. It finally fought off all shackles in 1991, regaining independence.

Understandably so, the capital is a receptacle of history—from its art nouveau architecture to communist buildings serving as a reminder of the tight fist of its occupation.

On a sunny day, I walked around the historic center of Riga—a UNESCO World Heritage Site—with a knowledgeable guide. The city was founded in 1201, and in some moments, it feels stopped in time. With streetside cafes, karaoke bars, and souvenir shops, modernity dwarfs medieval life. Yet I could still imagine the cobblestone streets vibrating with the hooves of horses, and warriors stationed at towers and bridges to protect the fortified city. The medieval walls don’t exist anymore, but if you’re up for a dose of play-acting, Rozengrals restaurant sets the medieval scene in an underground wine cellar from the 13th century, lit up with candles, where costume-wearing staff serve comically big bowls of French onion soup.

The Art Nouveau buildings became a part of its story in the early 20th century as the city expanded. Now Riga has the highest concentration of art nouveau architecture in the world, and these decorative buildings with human and mythical forms, stylized motifs, and colorful facades form an open-air museum. You could spend hours just on the famous Albert Street, where architect Mikhail Eisenstein has left his mark. For a peep inside a 20th-century apartment, open the doors to the Riga Art Nouveau Centre at Alberta iela 12. Here, you have a beautifully restored sitting room, bedroom, dining room, kitchen, and a maid’s room with intricate wall ornaments and period furniture. The star of the show, however, is the spiral staircase, an icon at the entrance with swirling layers of ceiling paintings.

City Hall Square and Saint Peter church in Old Town of Riga, Latvia’s capital at sunsetF11photo/Shutterstock

Cities, especially as old as these, evolve, as do the occupants. To me, the layered history of Riga and its dichotomy can be visualized from the top: one from the tower of the 12th-century St. Peter’s Church and the other from the 20th-century communist building that now houses the Latvian Academy of Sciences. Both are imposing structures over 100 meters, both are part of Riga’s storied past (pun intended), and both offer views of the city and the river Daugava. The infamous Stalin cake is a dark reminder of the Soviet occupation, but that’s exactly why this socialist skyscraper is an important landmark. History should not be erased—generations need to be able to look up at this monument to understand the meaning of the weight Milda is carrying.

The 21st-century Riga signals its political position clearly. Russian President Vladimir Putin features on one of the buildings’ facade—as a skull. The death’s head Putin was installed in 2022 at the Pauls Stradinš Museum of Medical History as a protest against the Russian invasion of Ukraine. It is a bold choice for another reason—the caricature faces the Russian embassy.

When walking around the city, let your eyes wander. The facades of the buildings are embellished with different styles and elements. Cats also take positions on building tops and exteriors. Oscar-winning animated movie, Flow, by a Latvian filmmaker, may have rekindled the love for felines, and the animals from the dialogue-less movie have been installed across Riga.

A Traveler’s Destination

Riga, beyond the Old Tow,n also offers a cultural high. The city has a vibrant nightlife, and you’ll hear some names again and again, such as the LGBTQ+ bar Skapis and live music venue M/Darbnīca. There are high-end restaurants with many in the Michelin Guide, but you can also get a taste of the local cuisine at the Central Market or the freshly-renovated Āgenskalns Market (get a food tour here). I missed my chance to catch a performance at the Latvian National Opera, which was a stone’s throw away from my hotel, but I did manage to go on a boat tour for another perspective of the city.

Interior of Rundale palace. This palace is one of the most outstanding monuments of Baroque and Rococo art in Latvia.Ugis Riba/Shutterstock

In the summer, Riga comes alive with festivals and markets, but even in autumn, a market in Old Town was a fun surprise. If you can brave the Northern European weather, come for the holidays and see the city blanketed with Christmas magic.

Every traveler has their own curiosities. With a destination unfamiliar to me, I ruminate over the footprints left behind. I was a first-time traveler, so Riga was the main protagonist in my itinerary. Yet, there’s a lot more to do outside the capital. Half of the country is woodland, and nature breaks are part of life here. You can also book trips to the countryside or go on hikes in the Gauja National Park. Besides, it also has a long coastline dotted with white sand beaches; in fact, in less than an hour from Riga, you can be sunbathing in the resort town of Jūrmala.

Latvia is flying under the radar right now, and it is a veritable contender in the category of new discoveries. In the age of TikTok and YouTube, all the usual places may seem overexposed, but with this Baltic country, there’s an element of surprise and novelty. Do it the old-fashioned way if you’d like—talk to locals about their fave haunts, pour into travel guides, and find your own hidden gems. To give you a headstart, there’s a list of recommendations at the end.

It’s difficult to write about travel divorced from the current events of the world. We are too connected not to be aware and affected by one another. And now more than ever, we need to be open to what seems foreign. It was Rumi who wrote, “Awe is the salve that will heal our eyes. And keen, constant listening.”

A vegetable seller presents vegetable cutting equipment at the Central Market in Riga, Latvia.Tanya Keisha/ShutterstockRecommendations

Eat at 3 Chef’s Restaurant, where the bread course is also a work of art. Also recommended by the Michelin Guide.

Drink fun cocktails at Gimlet with rhubarb and quince, and their special fermented ingredients.

Shop at the Central Market Riga, one of the largest markets in Europe in a repurposed military hangar.

Grand Hotel Kempinski RigaIngus Bajars

Sleep at Grand Hotel Kempinski Riga. It features multiple restaurants and bars and a spa. Sneak out to watch a ballet or opera performance at the Latvian National Opera next door.

Try the highly-alcoholic Balsam (with up to 45% alcohol content), the national drink of Latvia, and Ķiploku Grauzdiņi, the deep fried rye garlic bread.

Visit the 18th century Rundāle Palace, a grand baroque palace with beautiful gardens. It has been lovingly restored, and guests can pop into the apartments of the Duke and the Duchess. Just a short distance away is the rugged Bauska Castle, a 15th-century fortress which tells its story with its ruins.

Pop into boutiques if you’re looking for a Latvian souvenir—RIIJA and Mūsmāja are across the street from each other.