At first glance, the streets of Jaffa seem empty. Two of the city’s main attractions – the flea market and the Clocktower Square – are populated by few locals, with an Adhan, a Muslim call to prayer, heard in the background. However, a closer look at one alleyway reveals a cafe, with a sprawling line of customers as if it were just another day. The difference is that now the orders are handed out in disposable cups, and not in glass mugs. A tad less formal.