My itinerary for seeing the Arctic Circle (with Northern Lights!) in a weekend

I live in Los Angeles, where winter is more like a calendar page than a perceived reality. I’m also a travel writer, with frequent opportunities to jet-set around the world for work and leisure… but the destinations on my typical agenda include sandy beaches and swaying palm trees. You might say I have a bit of a blind spot when it comes to cold climes.

So when I had the chance to visit Finland in winter for the first time as a guest of Finnair, I jumped at it — especially because the trip included a quick extension from Helsinki into Finnish Lapland, above the Arctic Circle.

The catch: I only had 36 hours in Levi, Finland. Yes, it was a whirlwind. And yes, I definitely needed to gather some appropriate clothes. There was constant movement and little sleep. By the time I got home, I was exhausted and nursing a cold… and it couldn’t have been worth it more.

I was amazed by how much I managed to experience in such a short time — from reindeer sleigh rides and Arctic forest skating to a traditional Finnish sauna and the northern lights themselves. I’d recommend it to anyone for an unforgettable adventure of a lifetime.

About Levi, Finland

Levi is one of the best-known winter destinations in Finnish Lapland, located about 100 miles north of the Arctic Circle. The region draws travelers from around the world (especially Europe) for its snow-covered forests, ski slopes, and outdoor adventures — but many visitors come for one reason above all: the chance to see the northern lights, also known as the aurora borealis.

Because Levi sits so far north, it falls within the auroral oval — the band around Earth where northern lights activity is most frequent. Tourism officials say the aurora can be visible as many as 200 nights per year in Lapland, particularly between September and March, when dark skies make sightings easier.

If you’re planning a quick Lapland itinerary, here’s exactly how I spent 36 unforgettable hours in Levi, Finland.

The journey north — and northern lights sighting

After wrapping up work events in Helsinki, I boarded an evening flight to Kittilä Airport, the gateway to Levi and the surrounding region of Finnish Lapland.

The distance isn’t enormous — roughly 500 miles — but our flight made a brief stop along the way, stretching the journey to about three hours. We landed close to midnight, which had me worried. Seeing the northern lights was at the very top of my bucket list, and with such a short trip I feared I’d already missed a chunk of my chance.

Instead, something magical happened. As we approached Lapland, the pilots dimmed the cabin lights and encouraged passengers to look out the windows. Outside, shimmering green ribbons of light danced across the sky.

I was seeing the aurora borealis from the plane, and I was absolutely giddy.

Northern lights sightings depend on both solar activity and weather conditions. Even in a place like Levi — where the aurora is relatively common — clear skies are essential. Cloud cover can completely hide the lights, which is why many travelers stay several nights in Lapland to improve their chances.

That’s exactly why I felt so lucky seeing them from the plane. With only about 36 hours in Levi, I knew the odds were far from guaranteed.

A midnight arrival in Levi

We landed at Kittilä Airport just before midnight and drove about 15 minutes to Design Hotel Levi, a stylish, design-forward property in the heart of Levi ski resort, one of Finland’s most popular winter destinations.

From my warm room, I could look up at the snowy treetops — and faint streaks of the northern lights glowing overhead. It felt like a dream.

Sleep came late that night — mostly because I was too excited to sleep, and too afraid to miss an aurora moment. (Hot tip: Download the Aurora Alert app for real-time alerts!)

Breakfast the Finnish way

The next morning started with breakfast at Design Hotel Levi, which introduced me to one of the great joys of travel in Finland: the Nordic breakfast buffet.

The spread included breads, pastries, cheeses, smoked fish, eggs, fruit, yogurt, and hot dishes — plus the option to order additional items from the menu.

It was hearty, comforting, and exactly the kind of breakfast you want before heading outside into the Lapland winter landscape.

Afterward, we took a walk around the snowy landscape and nearby nature paths — a quiet introduction to the beauty of Levi by daylight, surrounded by forests blanketed in snow.

Lunch at Bistro West

Lunch was at Bistro West, a restaurant in Levi that offers something slightly different from the area’s many casual ski cafés.

Life in Finnish Lapland centers on outdoor activities — skiing, snowmobiling, hiking — so many dining options are quick and casual. Bistro West, by contrast, is a true sit-down restaurant with beautiful design and a thoughtful menu.

The portions were enormous, the atmosphere warm and inviting, and everything we tried was delicious. If you’re visiting Levi, I’d absolutely recommend adding Bistro West to your itinerary.

Ice skating through an Arctic forest

One of the most unexpectedly fun experiences of the trip came next: ice skating through a forest in Lapland.

Lovimainas Forest Ice Skating offers an arctic forest skating location — a natural ice rink winding through snowy trees like a frozen trail loop.

I should confess: I do not know how to ice skate.

Initially, I almost skipped this activity because I was convinced I’d break my wrist. But the rink offers walker-style skating supports — the same ones kids use at skating rinks — and once I had one, I felt surprisingly steady.

Gliding slowly through the snowy Arctic forest was magical. I ended up skating the loop three times.

For a fourth loop, I swapped my skates to try out a kicksled, a traditional Finnish push sled that locals historically used to travel during winter, even kids commuting to school.

Meeting reindeer at Reindeer Manor

Next, we headed to Reindeer Manor, a nearly 200-year-old property where visitors can learn about Sámi culture and traditional reindeer herding in Lapland.

We started with warm drinks and a talk from a Sámi reindeer herder who explained how reindeer herding works today and its long history in northern Finland.

The Sámi people are the Indigenous people of northern Europe — the continent’s oldest Indigenous peoples, with thousands of years in the Arctic region — with communities spread across northern Finland, Sweden, Norway, and parts of Russia’s Kola Peninsula. Their culture, language, and traditional livelihoods — including reindeer herding — are deeply tied to the Arctic environment.

Then came one of the most iconic things to do in Finnish Lapland: a reindeer sleigh ride.

Wrapped in blankets, we climbed into wooden sleds pulled by reindeer and glided slowly through the snowy forest.

Reindeer are deeply tied to life in northern Scandinavia. In Finland alone there are roughly 200,000 reindeer, and they actually outnumber people in some parts of Lapland. While many roam freely across the tundra and forests for much of the year, they are owned by local herders and rounded up seasonally.

The animals themselves were incredibly calm and beautiful — with thick fur, expressive eyes, and enormous antlers. The atmosphere had a very Santa’s workshop vibe.

The Finnish sauna experience

After the sled ride, we experienced another essential Finnish tradition: the sauna.

A Finnish sauna experience follows a simple rhythm. You warm up inside the sauna until you’re thoroughly sweaty, then step outside into the freezing air — sometimes plunging into cold water or rolling in the snow — before heading back inside again.

I expected the snow part to be miserable. Instead, it was shockingly invigorating.

We ran outside to make snow angels between sauna sessions, then dashed back into the warmth.

Sauna culture is so central to Finnish life that the country has an estimated three million saunas for a population of about 5.5 million people; Finland has more saunas than cars. Traditionally, the sauna isn’t just about relaxation — it’s considered a place for socializing, reflection, and even major life moments.

Dinner in Lapland

Dinner that evening was also at Reindeer Manor in a cozy dining room with a fireplace glowing nearby.

The menu features regional specialties, including reindeer and even bear, which initially made me nervous as a vegetarian. But the plant-based option — a warm hummus-based dish served as a hearty entrée — was fantastic and surprisingly filling.

Exploring Lapland’s SnowVillage

The next morning, fresh snow was falling, turning the landscape into a true winter wonderland.

Before heading to the airport, we stopped at Lapland Hotels SnowVillage, one of the most unique attractions in Finnish Lapland.

The entire complex is rebuilt every winter, entirely from snow and ice. Each season features a new theme and new sculptures carved by international ice artists.

This year’s theme celebrated festivals from around the world, with elaborate ice-carved rooms representing holidays like Chinese New Year and Día de los Muertos (my favorite, for its stunning carved skulls and flowers).

Highlights included an ice slide you can actually ride (it was actually even more fun than it looked!), a frozen chapel where couples can get married, an actual restaurant with tables and chairs made of ice, and one hotel room made entirely of ice.

Guests can even sleep overnight in this frozen hotel room (for the cost of €4,500!), bundled in Arctic sleeping bags on beds made from ice. (Personally, walking around for a couple of hours was plenty cold for me… so I’d take a hard pass on the ice bed.)

We warmed up afterward with a traditional Finish drink called glögi — made from red berry or grape juice infused with spices like cinnamon, cloves, and cardamom. It felt great going down after wandering through subzero corridors.

The quick trip home

From SnowVillage, we headed straight back Kittilä Airport, flying back to Helsinki before catching my long-haul Finnair flight to Los Angeles.

The connection was extremely tight — the kind of tight that might have been impossible elsewhere — but Helsinki Airport is famously efficient, and the transfer worked.

I was back home to my kids across the pond by bedtime that same night. And yet somehow, in just 36 hours in Levi, Finland, I had crossed the Arctic Circle, seen the northern lights, ridden in a reindeer sleigh, experienced a traditional Finnish sauna, skated through a snowy forest, and explored an entire village carved from ice.

It was fast, cold, magical — and absolutely unforgettable. Bucket list: check.