Romania, alongside Albania and Turkey, has submitted a multinational dossier for the inscription of “Oya / Hemstitch decoration, the traditional practice of embellishing edges” on UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
The nomination file was officially submitted on Tuesday and coordinated by Turkey’s Ministry of Culture and Tourism, bringing together a shared cultural practice rooted across Eastern Mediterranean, Balkan, Carpathian, and Pontic regions.
Romanian NGOs and communities at the core of the initiative
Romania’s contribution to the dossier was supported by a consortium of NGOs actively involved in safeguarding traditional crafts, particularly those related to folk costumes and handmade textiles. Among them, the award-winning “Semne Cusute” Association, recipient of the Europa Nostra Prize, played a central role in documenting and analyzing the technique.
Additional contributions came from “Mândra Project” (Zestre Contemporană) from the Făgăraș region and “ART – Meșteșugurile Prutului” Association from Iași, the only Romanian NGO accredited under the 2003 UNESCO Convention. The initiative also highlights the important role of Romania’s Turkish-Tatar community, represented by “Cusături Dobrogene” Association and the Democratic Union of Turkish-Tatars, underscoring the inclusive and multicultural dimension of this heritage.
A delicate technique with deep historical roots
Technically, the practice refers to a family of decorative stitching techniques derived from the blanket stitch, traditionally applied to rolled or folded hems of garments. Initially executed by hand using a needle, and later also with crochet, these techniques combine durability with intricate aesthetic detail.
In Romania, the craft stands out through its rich regional diversity. In eastern and southern areas, it appears on traditional tunic-style shirts for both men and women, featuring elaborate ornamental edges. Western regions such as Arad, Bihor, and Sălaj are known for their distinctive wide needlework finishes.
Central and northern Transylvania, as well as parts of Oltenia and Banat, showcase richly decorated sleeve endings, often created using crochet or mixed techniques. In Dobrogea, the Turkish-Tatar communities preserve the “oya” technique, reflecting broader cultural connections across the region.
The initiative comes as Romania marks 20 years since adopting the UNESCO Convention for the Safeguarding of Intangible Cultural Heritage. Through this nomination, the Ministry of Culture reaffirms its commitment to promoting heritage practices while emphasizing the essential role of communities and civil society in preserving, interpreting, and transmitting cultural knowledge.
The effort also aligns with Romania’s recent accession to the Faro Convention of the Council of Europe, which highlights the value of cultural heritage for society and reinforces the role of communities in shaping and managing their heritage.
Photo courtesy of Semne Cusute