I’m not entirely convinced as I settle into my seat. To stand a chance of seeing the aurora, you need clear skies. What we’ve got are snow clouds thick enough to obscure the lights, even if they are shining.
And yet as guide Lill passes through the train, she’s all smiles and confident (after consulting an app) that the train’s endpoint will not be a let-down. Does that mean we really will get a light show? Her answer is a confident “yes”.
The three-hour train experience will wind us up mountains towards the Swedish border, where it will make a 90-minute stop in deep, snowy, arctic wilderness. As we pull away from the platform, the lights are dimmed and Lill advises us to keep our eyes peeled in case the lights shine before we even reach our destination. Once we’ve rattled past Narvik’s suspension bridge and fjord – a famous World War II naval battle was fought and lost here against the Germans in 1940 – a fellow passenger jumps up excitedly and points out the window. It’s faint, but it’s undeniably there: a green stripe slashed across the sky. A good start.
This is a historic section of track, built in 1902 and still used to transport iron ore (some of the world’s finest) from Sweden’s Kiruna mines. We stop to let a freight train carrying iron ore pass – it’s half a mile long and takes a while.
Our destination is the remote hill station of Katterat, which is 40 minutes away and, as we rattle towards it, there’s a guided commentary and hot drinks (included in the fare) to keep us entertained.
The great thing about Katterat is that it can only be reached by train or on foot, which means there’s no light pollution from streets or cars or anything else for that matter. And thanks to its 373m elevation, it tends to be cloud-free, which makes it ideal for aurora spotting.
The higher we climb, the deeper the snow and the clearer and inkier the skies become. Finally, we arrive and disembark the train. A short trail snakes towards a makeshift camp where there are bonfires as well as an indigenous Sami “lavvu” tent for sheltering from the cold. And it is cold: -20C to be precise – so wrapping up warm is essential.
There is just one focus: the sky. Is it clear, can we see stars, are the conditions good? Yes, yes and yes. And so begins a waiting game. There’s nothing for several minutes, but slowly a transformation occurs. It’s almost imperceptible at first – a hazy, minty squiggle looping towards the heavens. Then it becomes bolder until soon the sky is slashed with emerald lines. The excitement is palpable with everyone snapping a trillion photos. No fancy cameras necessary – iPhone shutter speeds help the colours pop.
During the next hour or so, the lights come and go and we quickly learn that you can’t fixate on one spot as you look up. You need to keep turning in circles or risk missing something. And in between there’s hot chocolate and sausages on tap. Plus snowshoes to try if you fancy.
Passengers are a friendly, international bunch from India, Japan, Denmark, France, Brazil, you name it. And everyone’s buzzing to have witnessed what locals call the “Green Lady”.
Can this Northern Lights Train deliver on every occasion? According to guide Lill, they’re successful about 80% of the time. Good odds, but not a guarantee, because that would be impossible. And so most holidaymakers come here to enjoy other wintry adventures too, like cross-country or downhill skiing – Narvik will be hosting the 2029 FIS Alpine World Ski Championships. Other highlights include Narvik’s fjord, World War II history and Polar Park. This is the world’s most northern animal park, home to bears, wolverines, lynx and musk ox. And there’s some unique accommodation to try, like glass mountain cabins for example. If the aurora is shining, you can see it from bed.
But the jewel in Narvik’s crown has to be the new Northern Lights Train.
DETAILS
Four nights B&B in Narvik with Best Served Scandinavia costs from NZ$3139pp and includes hire car, activities, entrance to Polar Park, one night in a glass cabin and the Northern Lights Train.
The writer travelled courtesy of Best Served Scandinavia.