Anyone who has been in the kitchen since their teenage years, looking after their younger siblings and helping out at the family-run ‘Jausenstation’, will either have given up cooking as an adult or found their dream job, just like Gabriel Holzknecht.
After working in Switzerland and with Michelin-starred chef Alfred Miller in Innsbruck, he has been shaping the light, fresh and natural cuisine at the five-star Naturhotel Waldklause for 13 years. The 34-year-old chef and his team focus on seasonal, regional and predominantly organic produce from the Ötztal valley.
We caught up with him to find out more about his culinary philosophy, his favourite season and his biggest professional influence.
Can you tell us a little bit about yourself, including where you are today, professionally, and what got you here?
After completing my chef’s training at the Hotel Alpina in Sölden, I spent a year working in Zermatt, Switzerland, and also with Alfred Miller, a chef awarded two toques and a Michelin star, in Innsbruck. But then my longing for home grew stronger – and I seized the opportunity when I was able to start at the Naturhotel Waldklause. I’ve been here for 13 years now and have worked my way through every position in the kitchen.
Gabriel has been at Naturhotel Waldklause for 13 years now and has worked his way through every position in the kitchen
What or who inspired you to become a chef?
I’ve loved cooking ever since I was a teenager. Whilst my parents were at work, I used to look after my younger brothers and cook for them too. I enjoyed it even back then. In the summer, I also used to help my grandmother in the kitchen at her ‘Jausenstation’.
Who has been your biggest influence to get you to where you are today?
The chef during my training. He always told me: ‘To be a good chef, you need to be well-versed in every single aspect of the kitchen.’ I took that to heart and followed his advice always.
What’s your signature dish?
I don’t have a classic signature dish. We always look at what seasonal produce is available so we can keep coming up with new creations for our guests. That way, we stay flexible in the kitchen.
What are the most important considerations when crafting your menu?
For me, the most important thing is that the menus are well-balanced and focus on regional and seasonal produce.
Do your personal preferences influence the menu at all?
I think everyone has their own preferences, which they can’t – and shouldn’t – deny. These foods certainly feature more often on the menu than those you might not like so much.
How would you describe your cooking style?
It is very important to me to prioritise regional produce and to use fresh, seasonal ingredients. I am a firm believer in the ‘nose-to-tail’ philosophy – that is, making full use of the animal – and the ‘root-to-tip’ principle, which involves using every part of vegetables and fruit. In doing so, we are not only working sustainably, but also showing the animals and food the respect and the appreciation they deserve.
The most important thing is that the menus are well-balanced and focus on regional and seasonal produce
Do you have a favourite time of year or set of ingredients that you look forward to working with?
Definitely yes! For me, the most beautiful time of year is spring, when the young shoots start to sprout – shoots we can use, such as spruce shoots.
But I also really enjoy late summer, with all the mushrooms in the forest, partly because I love walking in the woods and partly because I absolutely love picking mushrooms.
What is your favourite ingredient to create with?
I really don’t have a clear favourite. But the freshwater fish from the Mrak family in Längenfeld are certainly a great product.
What would you be doing if you weren’t a chef?
I suppose a carpenter or a plumber. But I really love the career I’ve chosen.
What is your favourite dish to cook at home?
Quick and easy pasta dishes.
When are you happiest?
Personal: When I have time to myself, can just switch off and get out into nature.
Professional: When the dishes turn out exactly as I’d hoped and imagined.
What is your favourite piece of kitchen equipment?
I don’t have any particular preferences there either. I really like today’s combi ovens, as they make the work much easier if you use them properly.
Diners can expect fresh, down-to-earth cuisine made mainly from regional and seasonal ingredients, presented with a modern twist
When you’re not in the kitchen where can you be found?
In winter, skiing; in summer, foraging for mushrooms in the woods.
What’s your favourite takeaway or comfort food?
Burger or pizza.
Where is your favourite place to dine?
To be honest – at home.
What do you think is the most over-hyped food trend?
There are many food trends that I don’t agree with and don’t really support. I believe that a balanced diet is best.
What differences do you find working with local produce as opposed to non-local produce in terms of what you can create and flavour?
Regional products, sourced directly from the farmer, have much more flavour than mass-produced, factory-farmed goods. They may not all be perfect or uniform, but they simply taste better. I think it’s important to rethink our approach and try to use a product, a food, in its entirety.
How do you go about menu planning? What’s the process from picking the ingredients to getting them fresh into the kitchen and into dishes?
First, we look at what’s available, what’s in season at the moment, and what the prices are. Then we consider which ingredients go well together and what works best as a combination. Next, we finalise the menu and order the ingredients. Once the produce has been checked, we discuss as a team how best to present the dishes on the plate.
The restaurant is only open to hotel guests, not the general public
How would you describe the food you create at Naturhotel Waldklause to someone who’s never experienced your kind of food?
We serve fresh, down-to-earth cuisine made mainly from regional and seasonal ingredients, presented with a modern twist.
What’s your favourite flavour combination?
Schüttelbrot, ravioli, strawberries, green asparagus and black pepper
What is the USP of your restaurant?
We are not a restaurant open to the public, but one for hotel guests, offering regional, naturally inspired cuisine with a focus on flavour.
What do your future plans entail?
I am currently preparing to complete my training as a Certified Master Chef, one of the highest qualifications in the catering industry. I’m not worrying about what comes next just yet.
Factbox
Address: Unterlängenfeld 190, 6444 Unterlängenfeld, Austria
Phone: +43 5253 5455
Website: waldklause.at
All imagery credit: Naturhotel Waldklause