Travel-obsessive Layla Nicholson heads to Arctic Norway where she gets up close and personal with the royals, including those who come with a bit of a pinch. But, is this less travelled region worth skipping neighbouring Lapland for?
It’s a universal feeling to experience that insatiable itch of wanting to immediately jump out of your seat once the plane halts to a stop on the tarmac, regardless of how good the onboard hospitality is. That innate urge is most overwhelming once touching down in Ivalo, Finland, which acts as the gateway to one of the most magical places in the world – Lapland.
However, I’ve recently discovered that staying seated on Finnair’s ATR 72-500 propeller aircraft – ready for a second dose of ascension – leads to a largely uncharted charm.
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Sure, Finland is touted as the world’s happiest country, with it holding the title for nine consecutive years, but Arctic Norway has its own special concoction able to induce a state of pure euphoria. And I was lucky enough to experience it firsthand. Landing in Kirkenes, Northern Norway, made me realise that staying seated on a flight for a tad longer is actually worthwhile. The airport mirrors the size of the 3,400 population of this town, tiny. But, there’s nothing small about what this idyllic remote region – 250 miles north of the Arctic Circle – has to offer.
Norway’s geographical prowess doesn’t take long to come into fruition, offering stunning views of the fjords, synonymous with the country’s landscape.
Looking out of the car window en route to Snow Resort Kirkenes, just a short 15 minutes from the airport, acts as a teaser to the adventure ahead. The view is breathtaking, no matter what side of the car you’re sitting on. Although the journey from Heathrow to Helsinki to Ivalo then Kirkenes did begin to wear weary on my eyelids, even though the Finnair Business Lounge provided some mid-way solace, closing my eyes at this moment would have been counterintuitive.
View Of Cabins From Barents Sea
Why doze off into a dream when I’m experiencing one in reality? It sets the precedent for the Snow Resort, which provides its own otherworldly views – and hospitality.
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Dubbed as the ‘real life’ winter wonderland, it’s hard to argue with their self-proclamation. I find that I needn’t leave the grounds of the world’s only year-round snow hotel for a taste of Kirkenes, though I wasn’t brave enough to actually stay in the -4°C snow sculpted bedroom that heralds much of the appeal. As I entered the Gamme Fjord View Cabin, I praised my past self for choosing accommodation both warming for the body and the soul. I’m struck by the surrealistic view of the fjord, the huge window acting as a portal into a postcard.
Embracing both authenticity and luxury, the cabin is rooted in the Sami culture that is still apparent in this region of Norway. The design is inspired by the ‘Gamme’ hunting cabins that are traditionally used by the indigenous people. Hunting cabin in design, not by smell you’ll be glad to know – the scent of fresh wood is hypnotic. The room includes a sleek en-suite, lit up by an Aurora Borealis backdrop that was actually photographed on the grounds of the hotel.
It’s safe to say you’re never that far away from an injection of scenery here. I’m lured in by the view – the real one – the complimentary tea selection and the chair draped in sheepskin throws. But, that would have to wait until morning. Pulling the curtains close, the bed called my name – a demand that was difficult to ignore. I fell asleep as the epitome of comfort.
Upon waking up, I’m reluctant to leave the double bed but eager to draw back the curtains. I’m just glad I shut them before I went to sleep. Arctic Norway is veering into the midnight sun season, meaning the beams are especially bright and persistent.
Looking out at the fjord, drinking native cloudberry tea and melting back into the chair after a restful night sleep, I started to really feel the magic Arctic Norway is hiding from the usual tourism roster. After eating like a king on the breakfast buffet, it was time to get up close with royalty.
Norway might still be one of the only European countries with an intact monarchy, however there’s a ‘secret’ royal family reigning supreme below the Barents sea. The King Crab.
But, don’t be fooled by the name. Equipped with a fisherman suit and gloves resistant to the chill (and a pinch), I learned that it’s a matriarchal society below our feet, where the female ‘King Crab’ is left untouched to crawl the seabed freely where males are farmed for their meat.
“The King Crab are like Norwegian men, they have no brain and no heart,” Knut, King Crab Safari Lead, quipped before he brashly presented how the huge crustacean got its name. And it’s not because of their invasive tendency or mammoth stature, with some being able to reach up to a massive 6ft in leg span. Blue blood. The crustacean – native to Russia – actually ‘bleeds’ blue, transforming the snow below.
Knut With King Crabs
Ironically, I was fortunate enough to come into close proximity to two members of Norwegian royalty simultaneously. Just one was eating dinner, and I was eating the other for mine. As I was claws deep into the King Crab feast, which is served locally with white bread and mayonnaise, the actual Queen Sonja of Norway walks into the building for her supper upstairs at the Teina restaurant.
Although it would have been an honour, I’m glad the Queen wasn’t dining with me as I relished in the premium succulent meat, table etiquette skills on pause.
I do come eye-to-eye with the Queen the next day, she’s been immortalised on a tile in the hotel lobby bathroom. It’s safe to say that Norwegians love their royalty – in fish and human form. Fish in all forms is dominant, it’s a way of life here. I continue to realise this on a day trip to Vardø, the easternmost town in Norway, a three hour drive or four hour ferry from Kirkenes.
On board the Hurtigruten ferry, that follows the northern coast of Norway, an array of ice cream is served. The staff were kind enough to let me sample a few of the flavours, the brown cheese – a delicacy of Norway – was surprisingly delicious. It doesn’t sound appealing, but it looks and tastes like caramel – with a slight cheesy aftertaste.
However, I can’t say the same for the stockfish, or cod, that had been blended into ice cream form. Though, I can now say I’ve started to become well-versed in Norwegian delicacies.
Fish Ice Cream
This adventure for my tastebuds continues once reaching Vardø, a picturesque fishing town with a population of just under 2,000. Humans are trumped by the inhabitants of Hornøya Island, home to over 80,000 seabirds, just a 10 minute speedboat ride from the mainland.
As we approached what is known as ‘Bird Island’, I felt like I’d been transported into a professionally executed nature documentary. We manage to spot glimpses of Minke and Humpback whales, shyly teasing their presence. Even the guides, who see these scenes regularly, stood wide-eyed.
Vardo
Excitement and the cold winds pulled back my face, as we spotted a cluster of grey seals bopping their heads up and down near a rocky formation. Yet, the real spectacle of Bird Island is on the approach, with swathes of birds going to and fro. The protected nature reserve is home to 180 species of sea bird – including a large colony of the distinctive orange-beaked Atlantic Puffin – who live harmoniously amongst each other. We find them nesting adjacent to the black and green feathered – and arrogant – European Shag. Yes, that’s the name.
European Shags
Expertly avoiding bird droppings, though not everyone in our group left the island unscathed, the brief excursion is followed by a flying visit to the 18th-century Vardøhus Fortress – the northernmost fortress in the world. It’s been home to a long line of commanders, and is still inhabited by one today – who has an AI image of his face attached to a black cherry schnapps. Absurdity ensues as he tells us that the structure is said to be ‘haunted’ by the ghost of a maid who lived here hundreds of years before.
A chill waved over me, succeeded by a strange juxtaposition as the Russian border is just 12 nautical miles in the distance. Volatility is just a stone’s throw away over the snowy mountainous range, while I enjoyed the comforts of Norwegian hospitality – afternoon tea accompanied by brown cheese and strawberry jam waffles. Of course, I had to try a swig of the schnapps. The fortress acts more of a monument to the past, rather a marker of the future for Norway. It’s safe here.
Before the day trip to Vardø came to an end, it was time for dinner. Upon greeting us, the owner of Vardø Hotel, by Destination Vardø, lifted his arm up like he was Tulisa on the X Factor. ‘Female Boss’? No. ‘Cod Is Great’.
His permanent arm etching was – thankfully – not wrong. There’s no need for a cover up here. The fish is truly sublime, there’s nothing better than freshly caught cod dressed up in King Crab sauce. A collaboration of Norway’s finest seafood.
Stomach as full as my soul, we had to go back to Kirkenes on a three hour drive and hope to spot the Aurora Borealis. Excitement got the best of us as the driver pulled over after spotting what looked like a glimmer of green in the sky. However, it was just a cloud.
Layla on Bird Island
Even a case of mistaken identity can’t cloud this unmissable part of the world. Northern Finland is firmly on the map, but this region of Norway is most certainly worth staying onboard after touchdown in Lapland. My Northern Norway adventure might be over, but it feels like it’s just begun. I’ve only just scratched the surface of what the region has to offer and it’s only made me – and my palate – desperate for more.
Though, I may leave the fish ice cream alone next time.
** Finnair offers a direct service from London Heathrow to Helsinki, with up to 28 flights per week. Passengers can also enjoy flights between Norway’s Kirkenes to Helsinki up to seven times weekly. For more details, and to book, visit www.finnair.com
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