The Witch of Grič
By Hana Klain
Hidden at Skalinska Street 5 in the heart of Zagreb is what is believed to be one of the smallest museums in the world – The Witch of Grič.
It was founded by a group of friends, Dvina Meler, Darko Dovedan, Igor Mladinović, Sven Mladinović and Alen Markulin, with the aim of presenting a “darker” chapter of Zagreb’s history and heritage – witches.
The original idea was to create an authentic souvenir for visitors, but also to introduce tourists to a little-discussed part of Zagreb’s past.
The museum is dedicated to all the women who, over the centuries, were persecuted in Zagreb for various activities and fell victim to superstition.
Outside the museum, visitors are greeted by a witches’ parking space marked with a large broomstick. Though tiny in size, the interior is richly decorated with antique objects including a large cauldron, a “witch detection scale,” a hand-carved bench, and numerous old books.
The Witch of Grič
One particularly striking feature is the parchment displayed on the ceiling, listing the names of officially executed witches in Zagreb, along with notes on how some of them died.
The parchment was created by renowned Croatian calligrapher Darija Mesarić.
The Witch of Grič
Visitors can also purchase a unique souvenir, witch figurines, handcrafted by academic sculptor Irena Škrinjar.
Darko Dovedan, museologist, historian, tour guide and one of the museum’s founders, spoke to Croatia Week about the story behind the museum.
How much is the story of witches really a story about women who were misunderstood, different, or ahead of their time?
This museum is, above all, a homage to all the women who were unjustly persecuted throughout history. Stories of witches exist all over the world, but Zagreb had a particularly distinctive relationship with them.
When American visitors tell us about the 16 women executed in Salem, they are often shocked to learn that according to official records, 146 women were executed in Zagreb.
The Witch of Grič
This is certainly not something to be proud of, but it is important that visitors understand these women were often ambitious, progressive, and ahead of their time. Their fellow citizens did not understand them, and as a result, they were eliminated.
Zagreb was unusual because witches were prosecuted and sentenced by city authorities rather than the Church. Of all those accused, only a few managed to save themselves.
Today, the word “witch” carries a certain appeal, and many female visitors enter the museum saying, “Hello, I’m a witch.” Our goal is to promote something positive, strong, progressive, and different women.
The Witch of Grič
We have also developed a special approach for our visitors. For international guests, we tailor the story to focus on Zagreb’s witches. For Croatian visitors, we introduce them to Marija Jurić Zagorka and her literary works. Had she lived in the 17th century, she likely would have been declared a witch as well.
Is there an exhibit, story, or detail in the museum that particularly moves visitors or sparks the strongest reactions?
Among all our exhibits, the most valuable is one of only two copies in Croatia of the original edition of Malleus Maleficarum.
It is an extraordinarily powerful book that, unfortunately, brought a great deal of evil into the world. This 15th-century manual for the persecution of witches was written by Heinrich Kramer and Jakob Sprenger.
The Witch of Grič
Zagreb has a rich history and many urban legends. Is there a local witch story that particularly inspired you?
My eternal inspiration is Zagorka, because her stories are based on authentic historical records and events that actually took place in Zagreb.
I have always been fascinated by certain details, such as the large mace mounted on the roof of Kamenita vrata. According to legend, it was placed above the sacred site to prevent witches from landing on the roof.
The Witch of Grič
What are visitors’ first reactions? Do they come out of curiosity, for fun, or because they are interested in the historical side of the story?
Most of our visitors are familiar with Zagorka’s works, while others simply enjoy exploring history.
Occasionally, people discover the names of their own ancestors on our list of witches, and those are particularly emotional moments.
The Witch of Grič
If you could spend an evening with one of Zagreb’s witches, who would it be?
On the list of witches displayed in our museum is the surname Vugrinec. Her great-great-great-granddaughter visited us and explained that her ancestor was burned because she saved a child. When I hear stories like that, she is someone I would truly like to meet.
Among historical figures, I would also love to meet Zagorka. I would invite her for štrukli.
The Witch of Grič
Did you know that she used to visit this very location and socialise with Josip Juraj Strossmayer and Ivan Tkalčić in the early 20th century?
Strossmayer was also ahead of his time and strongly supported her work. At a time when German and Hungarian were dominant, it was exceptionally brave to write novels in Croatian that would become such an important part of our cultural heritage.
The Witch of Grič
The Witch of Grič Museum is open every day except Sunday from 12 pm to 8 pm. Admission is free.
The Witch of Grič
You can follow the museum on Instagram: The Witch of Grič Instagram