Inside Istria, Croatia’s Culinary Heartland: Visiting The Producers Behind The Flavors

Istria, a triangular peninsula in the northwestern corner of Croatia, on the Adriatic Sea, is widely considered to be one of Europe’s most notable and diverse culinary regions. What makes the region especially exceptional for food production is how much variety is compressed into a small area: rocky coastline, fertile inland valleys and forested hills, all within short distances. The mild climate and location mean Istria produces fantastic seafood, wine, cheese, olive oil and truffles. For an engaging experience beyond the restaurant table, it is possible to visit some of the favorite suppliers of one of the region’s top chefs. Chef Jefferey Vella, of Michelin-starred Cap Aureo in Rovinj, works with family run businesses, small producers and invites hotel guests to book foodie excursions to try and buy their products. As most small producers only supply Croatia or Europe, visitors from further afield must travel to the area to enjoy these unique gourmet experiences.

Truffle hunting

One of Chef Vella’s suppliers has also attracted international chefs like Gordon Ramsay, who visited Prodan Tartufi near Buzet and went truffle hunting with the owners and their expert truffle dogs. It’s possible to book a truffle hunt and then to sample the products on the attractive terrace. Truffles, a Prodan family business for generations, includes supplying fresh truffles to restaurants worldwide and to truffle enthusiasts who visit in person or order online. Prodan also produces and distributes its own range of products made from Istrian truffles.

Truffles come in several varieties. White truffles, the most highly valued among all types of truffles, grow from September to January. More common and milder, the black summer truffle grows throughout summer until late fall. From September until January, you can hunt for the black winter truffle with dark brown, interspersed with thicker white veins. The most highly valued among black truffles, growing from January until spring, is the Perigord, due to its distinctly intense flavor and aromatic scent.

Wine and Olive Oil

Ipša, a gorgeous family estate, has been producing organic extra virgin olive oil and wine for more than 20 years. The hillside location near Oprtalj, a picturesque medieval village is near the border of Slovenia. Founded by Klaudio Ipša, the business is now also run by his son Ivan and together they produce a small run of delicious oils and wines that you have to go to Istria to enjoy and purchase. While most consumers are familiar with Italian or Greek olive oil, Istria is actually one of Europe’s best olive growing regions. A mix of limestone soil, coastal air and Mediterranean climate creates ideal conditions for high-quality olives, while the proximity to the sea gives the oils a distinctly green, herbaceous character.

The focus for Ipsa is on single-estate production, with olives sourced entirely from their own groves to ensure consistency and a more defined flavor profile year after year. Visitors are invited to book an olive oil tasting (35 euros) with oils, local cheeses and breads or wine and oil tastings (45euros). The tastings are outdoors against a stunning backdrop.

Cheeses of Istria

Latus, a small Artisan dairy run by the Orbanić family in Žminj, Istria near the village of Orbanići, specialises in cow cheeses and yogurts you won’t find outside of Croatia. The dairy started with milk from its own herd and over the past decade has also worked with selected local farmers across Istria. While the business has grown and modernised, it remains grounded in local sourcing, respect for nature and a family-led approach to production. The dairy operates an attractive Milk and Cheese bar and shop where visitors can enjoy cheese and yogurt tastings, learn about the family’s history and traditional Istrian cheese-making, and purchase award-winning products like Veli Jože and Latufino cheese.

The Michelin-Starred Meal

After visiting Chef Jefferey Vella’s favorite Istrian producers, the natural culmination of such a trip is to enjoy some of what you’ve sampled in a meal at Cap Aureo, the Michelin-starred restaurant he leads. The Maltese-born chef was raised in a hotelier family and worked in a number of internationally renowned kitchens, including Gordon Ramsay at Claridge’s before running various Croatian kitchens. Today he oversees not only Cap Aureo but is Culinary Director for Maistra Hospitality Group which has over 100 restaurants. With chic interiors and an expansive view of historic Rovinj, Cap Aureo is the ideal setting for a tasting menu that tastes as good as it looks. Chef Vella’s cooking draws on seasonal produce sourced mainly from within 50 km and precise technique, balancing a highly stylised presentation that you’d expect in a tasting menu, with bold, expressive flavors rooted in regional tradition.

Highlights from the current menus include: Turbot with red cabbage, pan- roasted in brown nut butter served with early berries and black truffle; a tender scallop fried in chicken fat; and sticky chicken wing with morels and white asparagus. And, from the equally creative vegetarian menu: celeriac, salt baked with pressed shawarma and smoked butter yeast.

Desserts are from talented pastry chef Maša Salopek who previously worked as head pastry chef at the Michelin two-star restaurant Hiša Franko in Kobarid, northwestern Slovenia, under chef Ana Roš, a role that brought her international recognition.

A 3-course menu per person at Cap Aureo is €130.00 or a 7–course menu per person is €185.00. A vegetarian menu is also available.

Stay

The Grand Park Hotel Rovinj, on the 50BestHotels list for 2025, is the ideal location for a food-based trip. The hotel will organise visits to all of Chef Jefferey’s food and drink producers and the grand finale could be a meal at the Michelin-starred restaurant.

Set above the seafront promenade in Rovinj, overlooking the old town, the Grand Park Hotel Rovinj seems to blend into the hillside. Designed by Croatian studio, 3LHD, the architecture follows the natural slope of the coastline, with terraced forms, green roofs and preserved pine trees surrounding it. Inside, interiors by Piero Lissoni are understated. Stone, wood, and soft neutral tones create a calm foundation, while carefully selected artworks complement the space.

The vast wellness area, over two floors, is a destination in its own right with indoor and outdoor pools, saunas and plenty of places for relaxation. The outdoor 50-metre infinity pool has beautiful views of pretty Rovinj and the Adriatic Sea.

The starting rate for a double room:at Grand Park Hotel Rovinj is US$300