Norway, one of Europe’s great Christian pilgrimages

Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim, Norway. | Dennis Lennox

Americans looking for one of Europe’s greatest pilgrimage destinations should look to Norway and an ancient route leading to an historically important Christian site.

The St. Olav Ways, a network of nine pilgrimage routes, ends at Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim, Norway’s third-largest city and an incredibly underrated destination. The routes trace the legacy of St. Olav, king and martyr. (Olav is occasionally spelled in English as Olaf or Olave.)

Olav Haraldsson, a Viking king credited with consolidating Christianity in Norway, was killed in battle in 1030. His death transformed him into one of medieval Europe’s most revered saints. Pilgrimages to his shrine began almost immediately after his local canonization in 1031 — 23 years before the Great Schism divided Christianity between East and West — and continued for centuries until the Reformation reached Norway in 1537. Olav’s importance to Norway was later affirmed by Pope Alexander III, who in 1164 bestowed upon him the title “Rex Perpetuus Norvegiae,” which is Latin for eternal king of Norway.

The interior of Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim, Norway. | Dennis Lennox

In recent years, the routes were revived with 360 miles of marked trails across Sweden and Norway. A lesser-known extension, the St. Olav Waterway, begins in Finland and follows historic seafaring corridors across the Baltic Sea, including stops in the Finland’s Swedish-speaking Åland, before continuing westward to Sweden and, ultimately, overland to Trondheim on Norway’s western coast.

The pilgrimage reflects not only medieval piety, but also the extent of St. Olav’s influence across the Nordic world, where devotion to the saint spread far beyond the borders of Norway.

Travelers unwilling to undertake a weeks-long trek can still experience the pilgrimage tradition by walking the final stage into Trondheim. The approach offers a powerful sense of arrival as the twin towers of Nidaros Cathedral gradually emerge above the city skyline.

The interior of Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim, Norway. | Dennis Lennox

Built over the burial site of St. Olav, the cathedral is Europe’s northernmost medieval cathedral. For nearly a millennium, it has served as a spiritual landmark, first as a Roman Catholic shrine and today as the principal see of the Church of Norway (Evangelical Lutheran). It was also the traditional coronation church of Norwegian monarchs. In fact, the crown jewels can be viewed in a museum housed in the pre-Reformation archbishop’s palace.

Yet one of Trondheim’s most intriguing religious stories is found not inside Nidaros Cathedral but directly across the street.

It is there where a modest Roman Catholic cathedral stands, facing the great medieval Gothic landmark that was extensively restored for most of the last century after centuries of neglect left it in ruins. Completed in 2016, St. Olav’s Cathedral serves a growing Roman Catholic population. Inside, worshippers can venerate a relic of St. Olav.

The Roman Catholic St. Olav’s Cathedral has a relic of St. Olav in a side chapel. | Dennis Lennox

That creates an unusual contrast. Although Nidaros Cathedral stands where St. Olav was buried and has drawn pilgrims for centuries, his original shrine was destroyed during the Reformation. The Danish king, Christian III, seized the shrine and sent its silver, gold and jewels to Copenhagen. St. Olav’s mortal remains were reburied somewhere in or near the cathedral, but their exact location is unknown.

For Christian visitors, the story provides a tangible reminder of both the shared heritage and the awful tumult of the Reformation.

Yet Trondheim’s appeal extends well beyond church history. The city feels like one of Europe’s best-kept secrets, particularly after the cruise ship tourists depart in the early afternoon for their next port of call.

Trondheim blends medieval history with the youthful energy of a major college town. That spirit is perhaps most visible on May 17, Norway’s National or Constitution Day, when residents fill the streets for parades, church services, speeches and wreath-laying ceremonies. Most wear traditional folk costumes, creating a celebration that combines elements of Independence Day, Memorial Day and school graduation festivities.

Many of the colorful wooden buildings lining the Nid River (Nidelva in Norwegian) are former merchant warehouses that have been transformed into restaurants, cafes, boutiques and housing. The compact city center is easily explored on foot, yet forests, hiking trails and fjords lie only minutes away.

The colorful streets of Trondheim, Norway. | Dennis Lennox

During summer, the extended daylight hours make it possible to spend nearly an entire day hiking, cycling, fishing or simply enjoying the beauty of creation. For those seeking a deeper experience, a pilgrimage on the St. Olav Ways combines physical activity, history and religious reflection.

That gives Trondheim significant appeal.

It is more than a city with an old cathedral. It is a place where history remains visible in the landscape itself. Pilgrims still arrive on foot. Worshippers still gather around the memory of a king-turned-saint. And travelers still encounter a destination that, despite its rich history and remarkable setting, is relatively untouched by overtourism.

If you go

The Britannia Hotel is not merely a five-star hotel; it is Trondheim’s premier address for travelers seeking a memorable stay. Established in 1870 and extensively renovated in recent years, the property combines old-world elegance with contemporary comfort. Its grand public spaces, excellent dining venues and central location make it the ideal base for exploring Trondheim.

The final stage of the St. Olav pilgrimage route on the outskirts of Trondheim, Norway. | Dennis Lennox

The final stage of pilgrimage route involves an approximately five-mile walk from the Pilgrim Hostel at Lian Gård. Roughly half the route follows wooded trails, while the remainder involves urban sidewalks and pedestrian paths as it descends into Trondheim. The walk is suitable for anyone with a reasonable level of mobility. Reaching the starting point is straightforward. Simply take the city’s Gråkallen tram to its terminus at Lian and follow the well-marked St. Olav trail markers.

Nidaros Cathedral is open daily, but visitor hours may be limited. Guided tours are available. Travelers interested in the cathedral’s religious significance may also wish to attend a service. Services are held daily and often include English-language Anglican rites from the Church of England.

In addition to the cathedral, worthwhile attractions include the Archbishop’s Palace Museum, Crown Regalia and Armory Museum. While all three are located within the cathedral precincts each is a different museum. Also worth visiting are the Sverresborg Trondelag Folk Museum and Trondheim Art Museum, . Be advised that museum hours are surprisingly limited, making it difficult to visit everything in just two or three days.

Trondheim Airport offers excellent connectivity for a city of its size. KLM and SAS provide frequent service, making Trondheim easily accessible from most major U.S. airports with just one connection through Amsterdam, Copenhagen or Stockholm.

Dennis Lennox writes a travel column for The Christian Post.