Italian cuisine officially became part of UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage in December last year. Every region has its own tradition, and as Milan‘s streets and venues get ready for men’s fashion week, which runs from Friday to June 24, restaurants are also preparing their classic Milanese recipes.
One of the most famous is the traditional saffron risotto, or risotto alla Milanese.
Here, WWD lists the best places in Milan to find it, according to local gastronomic tradition.
Trattoria del Nuovo Macello
Trattoria del Nuovo Macello was founded in 1928 in the Porta Vittoria district at Via Cesare Lombroso. Since 1959 it has been run by the Traversone family, now in its third generation. The trattoria carries on Milanese culinary tradition, with chef Giovanni Traversone leading the kitchen.
The restaurant still features many elements that are part of its history: original furnishings and everyday objects from its past, like an old radio used as decor to create that sense of familiar atmosphere.
Its cuisine is built on seasonal quality ingredients and a balance between tradition and innovation. The tasting menu includes great classics of Lombard cuisine such as risotto alla Milanese with saffron stigmas, superior butter, and Lodigiano riserva, a traditional Italian grana cheese; half cotoletta with veal nut crepinette, and, to finish, frozen hazelnut and rosemary torroncino with balsamic vinegar and coffee cream.
The risotto at Trattoria del Nuovo Macello.
Courtesy Image/Federico Bontempi
Trattoria del Nuovo Macello
Via Cesare Lombroso, 20 – 20137
trattoriadelnuovomacello.it
Ratanà
Ratanà was founded in 2009 by chef Cesare Battisti.
It’s located inside an early 20th-century historic building, home to the Fondazione Riccardo Catella, in the Porta Nuova district. A modern osteria inspired by tradition, it has Milanese cuisine and excellent ingredients at its core thanks to strong relationships with a wide network of small local producers.
The building was once a warehouse for the Ferrovie Garibaldi railway. The renovation was entrusted to Milan-based architecture firm RGAstudio, founded by Giuliano Iamele and Raffaele Azzarelli, which commissioned bespoke furnishings from bronze-worker Bagatti.
The entrance counter is made from slabs of Candoglia marble, while the lighting comes from Michele De Lucchi’s Acquatinta lamps and the seating was designed by architect and designer Paola Navone for Italian furniture brand Gervasoni.
The menu features Risotto alla Vecchia Milano with gremolada (a sauce made with herbs and lemon juice) and roast gravy, alongside other Italian classics like vitello tonnato with salina capers and traditional lasagna with veal ragù.
Ratanà also features one of Milan’s best wine cellars, which includes natural and biodynamic wines. The selection focuses on local varieties and native grapes from Italy, France, and Europe’s leading wine regions.
The Risotto Vecchia Milano at Ratanà.
Courtesy Image
Ratanà
Via Gaetano de Castillia, 28 – 20124
ratana.it
Risoelatte Duomo
Risoelatte is located in Via Camperio, 6 in the Cordusio area, a few steps from the Sforza Castle and the Duomo. Its name recalls the homemade recipe of rice cooked in milk.
The cuisine draws on traditional recipes, some of which are reimagined with the chefs’ creativity, with ingredients from small local producers.
The furnishings and tableware are strictly vintage and the dishes are presented simply. Risoelatte’s cooking is homestyle and rooted in tradition, and, depending on the season, customers can enjoy a saffron risotto with osso buco, vitello tonnato, grilled swordfish, lasagna, or their signature cotoletta alla Milanese.
The restaurant spans three levels, and each one captures that vintage atmosphere. The 1960s vibe comes through in the pastel green walls and white-and-red checkered curtains.
Risoelatte Duomo
Courtesy Image/Roberta De Palo
Risoelatte Duomo
Via Manfredo Camperio, 6 – 20123
risoelatte.com
Al Matarel
In the heart of the Brera neighbourhood, along Corso Garibaldi, stands a historic landmark that has embodied Milanese culinary tradition since 1962. Recognized by the city as a “Bottega Storica Milanese,” it was founded by Giobatta Comini. The restaurant is now run by his wife, Elide, and their grandsons Giovanni and Christian following Comini’s passing in 2015. Their philosophy for every recipe is to make it the old way, with no reinventions or modern twists.
On the walls of Matarel, guests can appreciate the story of the city. The menu is a tribute to the flavors of Milan’s culinary history. The signature dish is the “ossobuco in gremolada” served with saffron risotto — a cut of veal shank first seared, then braised for over three hours in the gremolada sauce.
Al Matarel
Courtesy Image
Al Matarel
Corso Garibaldi, 75 – 20121
almatarel.it