Traveling is a vibe, and the Algarve is proof.
Portugal’s southern coast is most famous for its cliffs — the limestone stacks, sea caves, and grottos naturally carved out by the Atlantic. With roughly 100 miles of coastline from Sagres to Faro, it’s been a European favorite for decades.
This summer, I found it more than worthy of its own trip — but my girlfriends and I used it as an encore, after visiting Lisbon and Porto, two more well-known cities. We wanted to explore new cultures and had a reason to celebrate: one of us had just earned her PhD at 55, a milestone two years in the making. The Algarve felt like exactly the right place to do both.
Arco de Albandeira. Photo provided by Ashley Feltner.
Home Base in Luz
We took the train from Porto to Lagos, watching the landscape move from vineyard hills to rivers, bridges, and cityscapes. We settled in Praia da Luz, a small, former fishing village on the western edge of the Algarve. Think whitewashed homes, a stunning coastline, sandy beach, and small storefronts on quaint streets. Technically a civil parish, Luz is home to locals and tourists, with excellent restaurants and welcoming pubs all within a few blocks. We had the good fortune of cheering on Portugal in the World Cup at one of these small pubs during our stay.
Praça Luís de Camões, the famous green tiled building in Lagos. Photo by Ashley Feltner.
Where to Eat
Fortaleza da Luz has it all: locally sourced fresh fish and views that stop passersby in their tracks (which is how we found it). Housed inside and alongside a fort built in 1670, its stone walls and vaulted ceilings are officially recognized as a Property of Public Interest with garden seating overlooking the rocky Atlantic coastline. Evenings with an acoustic or jazz musician are highly recommended and the menu is worthy of more than one visit — we came back for a sunset cocktail.
Tucked just next door is The Ice Cream Factory, but don’t let the simple name fool you. Sitting on the same private gardens, this little shop serves ice cream made fresh daily by the owners. You’ll have to peek in the glass case to see what the flavors of the day are. I went with a salted caramel.
The whole area boasted fish so fresh that we usually just popped into a restaurant (off the main touristy streets) while traveling up and down the coast. But one other recommendation is Bosman’s. This South African establishment had the best sea bass, but be sure to make a reservation as it fills up fast.
Fortaleza da Luz. Photo by Ashley Feltner.
What to Do
While we used Bolt (Portugal’s version of Uber) in the larger cities, we rented a car to better explore what the Algarve has to offer — the coastline deserves having your own wheels for your own pace. We drove up and down the A22 and got “lost” wandering through cozy, floral streets. The following are must dos:
Hike the Arco de Albandeira. About 20 minutes from Luz sits one of the most photographed rock formations in the Algarve. We hiked up and over the arch, then down a set of steep stairs through a narrow cliff tunnel to Praia de Estaquinha — a small rusty-colored beach nestled between two large cliffs. While we had only planned to hike, there were several visitors spreading out blankets for a beach day.
Walk the cliffs at Ponta da Piedade. More touristy than Albandeira, but the views are just as stunning. Steep stairs lead down to a narrow tidal pool cut into the rocks where the waves were crashing hard. We chose to watch instead of wade; the spot was very small and very crowded.
Wander the historic district of Lagos. The cobblestone streets are lined with colorfully tiled shops full of ceramics, pottery, and local wares. Praça Luís de Camões is home to the city’s famous green tiled building, a must-photograph landmark. From there, the waterfront promenade is dotted with local artisans selling their work, a nice slow pace after our morning on the cliffs.
Relax under an umbrella . A local vendor will help you pick the perfect spot for your two chairs and umbrella — you’ll absolutely want the shade. We visited two different locations: Praia da Luz right by our Airbnb, where restaurants and shops line the beach, and Meia Praia, a larger beach that’s perfect for a walk. Both spots were made for the same thing: a good book, relaxation, and people-watching.
Rent your own boat. Skip the overly crowded tour boats and rent a smaller boat instead — ours came with a captain who doubled as our guide and DJ, playing great music while pointing out the coastline’s history. We got to see the same rock formations from the water that we’d hiked earlier in the trip — a totally different perspective. The highlights: motoring into a sea cave, then jumping straight into the Atlantic for a swim that felt every bit as cold as it sounds. Another suggestion? Bring your own wine and cheese.
Dinner at Fortaleza da Luz. Photo by Ashley Feltner.
Just Say Yes
The Algarve isn’t undiscovered, but it is a lesser-known stop — and that won’t last.
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There is always perspective gained when traveling, and the adventure only happens if you say “yes.” Making a trip abroad a reality is not always easy, but it’s always worth the time. For two in our group, this trip was the reason for their first passport. And the friend celebrating her PhD at 55 was also proof that it’s never too late to start something new.
So when your friend asks you to come along on an overseas adventure — just say “yes.”. And, if no one is asking, extend an invite.
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