Moldova’s wine and spirits industry has bounced back after years of Soviet oppression, with its brandy flying the flag for the country’s output.
Divin has been produced in Moldova since 1896
How much do you know about Moldova? Sandwiched between Romania and Ukraine, Moldova isn’t a travel destination that quickly comes to mind – but it is arguably one of Europe’s best-kept secrets.
For a country of only 2.4 million people, Moldova has many qualities that place it in good stead to succeed on the global stage. Despite being heavily bombed during World War II, the capital, Chişinǎu, is brimming with culture. From the lively Cathedral Park, home to the main Orthodox cathedral and The Triumphal Arch at its border, to Valley of the Mills, with its sprawling lake and perfectly manicured rose gardens, plus Chişinǎu’s burgeoning food-and-drink scene, there’s plenty to explore in the city.
Arguably, what makes this small country particularly intriguing is its wine and spirits sector. Yet these have been largely left out of broader discussions regarding alcohol. The National Office of Wine and Vine, however, hopes that will soon change. The nation’s wine and spirits producers tell the tale of a country that has overcome war, occupation, and multiple empires. Befittingly, the symbol of the sector’s national trade body is a bird that nests in large quantities in Moldova and represents new beginnings: the stork.
Resilient producers
Travel around the country and evidence of Moldova’s Soviet past is plain to see, and has been formative in building the modern-day Moldovan wine and spirits industry. In 1987, the Soviet anti-alcohol campaign destroyed tens of thousands of hectares of vineyards, while the Russian embargo on Moldovan wines and spirits between 2006 to 2012 ruined the nation’s exports overnight. More recently, the war in Ukraine closed the port of Odesa, adding hundreds of kilometres to export journeys and driving up costs. Nevertheless, Moldovan wine and spirits producers have proven their resilience – and skill – time and time again.
Moldova has the highest density of vineyards in the world, and some of the most fertile soil, too. At its peak during the Soviet era, the country’s vineyards spanned 350,000 hectares. Today, Moldova has 114,000ha of vineyards (including those used to grow table grapes and for at-home wine production), which are divided into three IGP regions: Valul lui Traian, Ștefan Vodă, and Codru.
Fruit-forward: grapes being harvested
The southwestern region of Valul lui Traian (Trajan’s Wall) typically has a Mediterranean climate, with warm, dry summers and mild winters due to its proximity to the Black Sea and Tigheci hills forests. Ștefan Vodă sits to the southeast of the country, and is particularly well known for its red grapes – especially the indigenous Rară Neagră. The central region of Codru has the nation’s coolest climate, with oak and linden forests covering 25% of the landscape, and mostly grows white grapes.
Like many other historic wine-producing nations, with good wine also comes good brandy, known as ‘Divin’ in Moldova, meaning ‘Divine’. The aged grape brandy has been produced in Moldova since 1896, when the first distillery was founded, called Calarasi Divin. Since 2012, Divin has been protected as a geographical indication (GI), and must adhere to strict regulations, similar to Cognac and Armagnac from France. It is produced anywhere within Moldova’s borders but is governed by one of the strictest specifications in the European brandy world. To be called ‘Divin’, the spirit must be distilled twice from wine and aged for at least three years in oak. A mix of European grapes and indigenous varieties can be used to make Divin, and typical varieties include: Aligoté, Chardonnay, Fetesască Albă, Luminita, Pinot, Riton, Rkatsiteli, Sauvignon, and blends.
Firm rules
The strict specifications that govern Divin production include capping yields at 1,600 litres per annum, per hectare; forbidding sulphur dioxide during the wine-base cycle, along with aromatic additives or rectified alcohol during production. Distillation must be completed by 1 May after harvest.
Distillation can take form in continuous or pot stills, though continuous distillation is the more traditional method in Moldova. The spirit typically comes off the stills somewhere between 62% and 72% ABV, and must then be aged for a minimum of three years to qualify as Divin. After Moldova’s native grape varieties, maturation is where the spirit becomes particularly interesting, and distinguishes itself from other regional brandies and alternative aged spirits around the world. The GI defines four categories of Divin: VS (with a minimum age of three years), VSOP (five years), XO (seven years), and XXO (20 years). Younger Divins can be aged in traditional oak casks or in steel tanks containing stacked wooden staves. The regulations stipulate Divin producers can do this for up to five years before the liquid must be transferred into wooden casks. After blending, it is mandatory to let Divin rest for specific periods of times, determined by the spirit’s age: three months for VS and VSOP, six months for XO and 12 months for XXO.
The Divin category has grown steadily over decades. Moldova’s Divin industry is built on the complementary strengths of several historic producers, each contributing to the country’s rich technological heritage. Călărași Divin pioneered industrial grape distillation in Moldova, laying the foundations for a tradition that has continued for more than a century.
Field of dreams: vineyards
Producers such as Barza Albă, Aroma and Kvint preserve exceptional reserves of mature wine distillates, including stocks aged for more than 40, 50 and even 60 years. These exceptional reserves reflect more than a century of uninterrupted distillation expertise, the continuity of traditional production practices, and a technological heritage that few grape brandy-producing countries can claim.
These historic reserves are continuously integrated into premium blends, ensuring continuity of style and preserving the distinctive sensory profile developed over generations. Together with historic ageing cellars, specialised maturation infrastructure, and the expertise of master distillers and blenders passed down through generations, they represent a unique technological capital that reinforces the authenticity, reputation and long-term sustainability of Divin.
One of the top three producers of Divin today is Bardar, which was founded in 1929 The distillery sits in the Cordru wine region, approximately 15km south of Chişinǎu, and is part of the Purcari Wineries Group, owned by Maspex International.
The location is key to the quality of Divin coming from the distillery, with its cooler climate ideal for growing grapes.
The Cordru area includes 52,500ha of vineyards, while oak and linden forests cover 25% of the area, contributing to the ideal climate conditions.
‘Only grapes, oak and patience’ is the distillery’s mission statement. There is no luxury visitor centre or fine-dining restaurant at Bardar – but that is a huge part of its industrial charm.
Indisputable bargain
The distillery’s portfolio spans a broad age range, culminating in the pinnacle of its Divin range: award-winning Divin Bardar Platinum 25 Years. With its velvety, luxurious texture, the XXO Divin is packed with medjool dates, chocolate, warm spice, tarte Tatin, and brioche flavours. At €150 (US$170) from the on-site distillery shop, it’s an indisputable bargain compared with other brandies.
Also marching the Divin category onwards is Chateau Cojusna, also located in the Codru wine region of Moldova. Here, five million bottles of wine and two million bottles of spirits are produced annually. In addition to Divin, which it has been making since 2006, Cojusna is also distilling grappa from Sauvignon and Muscat grapes.
From field to glass: Divin is one of the finest grape brandies in the world
In contrast to Bardar, Chateau Cojusna is leaning into tourism, with its on-site tasting rooms and hotel, which opened to the public in December 2025.
The producer already welcomes 10,000 visitors a year through its doors, many of whom cross the border from Romania, with small, but growing numbers, from Poland, Ukraine, China, France, and even as far afield as New Zealand.
The facility creates three Divin brands – Autentic, Migdal, and its most premium expression, Chateau Cojușna XO, aged for 15 years. Among the Autentic range is the brand’s five-year-old VSOP, which boasts raisins, apricot and light tropical fruit aromas, leading to sweet toffee, treacle and nice amount of spice on the palate.
Unlike production facilities, technological heritage cannot be built in a few years. It is created over decades through continuous production, long-term ageing programmes, the preservation of historic distillate reserves and the transmission of specialised expertise. These intangible assets are among the greatest competitive advantages of Moldovan Divin.
Moldovan brandy is rapidly collecting global industry accolades, a testament to the quality and diversity of products coming out of the country.
With the backing of the national body for wine and spirits, Moldova is well-placed to elevate Divin from a niche category to one of the finest grape brandies in the world. Moldova may be a small country, but its ambitions for Divin are not.
The National Office of Vine and Wine is a public institution to regulate the quality and support the export of Moldova’s wine and Divin. This was a key step taken by the public and private sectors to support the promotion of the country’s wine brand, Wine of Moldova, alongside Divin.
Native grape varieties in Moldova
One of the most unique and fascinating qualities about Moldovan wines and spirits is the country’s grape varieties. Moldova cultivates Western European, Black Sea Basin, and indigenous varieties. The local grape varieties are greatly credited – and rightly so – with giving Moldovan wines and spirits their unique character. Around 5% of Moldova’s vineyards are dedicated to growing local grape varieties: Feteascǎ Albǎ (white), Feteascǎ Regalǎ (royal), Feteascǎ Neagrǎ (black), and Rarǎ Neagrǎ (rare black).
Feteascǎ Albǎ
Cultivated for centuries, this historic grape creates floral aromas, and light, fresh wine profiles.
Feteascǎ Regalǎ
This is a semi-aromatic grape variety that boasts floral and grapefruit aromas, fresh pear and citrus flavours, and is more full-bodied than its parent variety above, Feteascǎ Albǎ.
Feteascǎ Neagrǎ
Native to southeastern Romania and Moldova as we know it today, this grape variety is fairly pale, and presents gentle tannins, spicy berry fruit, and grows well on the country’s sun-drenched hills.
Rarǎ Neagrǎ
Give this grape a sunny slope and it will thrive. The resultant wines from this ancient variety are fresh and soft, with dried fruit and vanilla flavours.
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