Synthetic dyes have largely replaced plant-based dyes in the textiles industry, but there are still plenty of artists who swear by the natural methods.
About 30 miles north of Owatonna, artist Judy Saye-Willis makes her own indigo dye from scratch. The Northfield area artist is partnering with the Owatonna Arts Center to give locals a unique, hands-on experience. She’s hosting a a full-day indigo workshop on Sept. 19. The workshop will give participants a glimpse of the entire indigo production process, from the field where Saye-Willis harvests the crop to the studio where she processes it. Limited spots are available.
Judy Saye-Willis, pictured in her studio-laboratory, is partnering with the Owatonna Arts Center to offer an indigo workshop on Sept. 19. The Northfield-based artist is offering up to six locals a chance to learn about her process, from harvesting fresh indigo in the field to dyeing textiles.
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The recently announced course will need at least two participants to go on as planned.
“We really want the class to run, because it’s a wonderful experience and you learn a traditional process,” said Silvan Durben, artistic director at OAC.
Durben said the arts center has rarely, if ever, offered off-site workshops like this.
Saye-Willis aims to give students an overview of the most common artistic applications for the dye. After harvesting fresh indigo, they’ll bring it back to her studio for a cold extraction process, which is optimal for silks. Unlike the deep blue associated with indigo, cold extraction produces a teal hue. In the afternoon, they’ll practice the Japanese tie-dyeing technique Shibori using a more traditional indigo dye.
Saye-Willis is aiming for between two and six students due to the capacity of her studio. If there’s more interest, she’s open to scheduling more workshops.
Saye-Willis has been growing indigo in Rice County for several years. Currently, she grows her crop at Silkey Gardens, just south of Northfield. She said the owner has been quite hospitable, even installing water lines and spreading fertilizer for her.
The science of indigo
From ancient textiles to blue jeans, indigo dye has remained popular throughout most of recorded history. It’s not entirely clear when the dye was first discovered, as textiles are often poorly preserved in the archaelogical record. Fabric scraps uncovered in Peru indicate it’s been used for at least 6,000 years. Indigo was later used by civilizations including Egypt and Rome.
After millennia of use across many cultures, indigo was synthesized in the 19th century.
Saye-Willis said modern chemical dyes offer more predictability and control. She still strives to control the process when working with natural dyes, but she’s learned to accept that she can never account for every single variable. Everything from the weather and soil conditions during the growing season to the temperature of the water she uses will influence the outcome.
Judy Saye-Willis opens the lid on a container of indigo.
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Despite the added complexity, many artists still choose to work with natural dyes. In fact, Saye-Willis has noted growing interest in the topic in recent years.
Why does she grow her own indigo?
“Because I can,” she said.
“I’ve always been one of those — if I can do it, I’ll give it a try. The color fascinates me.”
Instead of an inconvenience, she sees the plethora of variables as a source of options.
Always a scientifically-minded person — in high school, she wanted to be a nuclear physicist — Saye-Willis dabbles in disciplines ranging from botany to chemistry as she seeks to know more about the pigment that’s captivated people for thousands of years.
People who’ve seen her studio have remarked that it’s more of a laboratory. She’s taken to calling it a studio-lab, or “stu-la” for short.
“I’m doing a lot more research this year,” she said. “Scientific type of research, one variable at a time with indigo. How can I maximize the yield that I get, the pigment that I get out of the indigo that I grow every year?”
Over the years, she’s involved St. Olaf students, including chemistry majors, in her work.
Indigo can be derived from several varieties of plants cultivated across multiple continents. India has long been a major source of the dye. In fact, “indigo” is derived from a Greek work meaning “Indian.” However, tropical varieties of indigo wouldn’t fare well in Minnesota. Saye-Willis grows a plant commonly known as Japanese indigo, which is much better suited to the locate climate. Unfortunately, the crop is always wiped out by the first frost, and she has to replant every year.
She counts French dye expert Michel Garcia as a mentor, having taken a class from him. He was the one who informed her that Japanese indigo could grow in Minnesota.
Saye-Willis said she enjoys teaching, and seeing the excitement on people’s faces when they discover their passion for a new art form. She’s had several exhibitions at the arts center and taught previous classes there, and is active in other art centers in the region.
MORE INFO
WHEN: 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Saturday, Sept. 19
WHERE: Saye-Willis’ studio (30 miles north of Owatonna)
Price per student is $145. Limited spots available. Register by calling 507-451-0533