I took a running jump from the wooden platform jutting out over Lake Balžis, and for the split second I was in the air, everything seemed to pause. I took in the pristine forests, the cloudless sky, the dragonflies hovering and the beautifully clear water I was about to plunge into.
The stillness enveloped me. As I emerged from the cool lake, I thought about how many European cities would kill for such a paradise so close to their centre. I was at Green Lakes, a 15-minute bus ride from the bustle of Vilnius, but it felt like a different world. The water, the parkland and the beach with imported sand were so clean and appealing.
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The beaches at Green Lakes outside of Vilnius offer excellent, clean swimming and places to barbecue and picnic (GoVilnius)
Lithuania is a gem of a country, set between the Baltic Sea and Belarus; it is home to wild nature and unique culture. Its twin cities, Kaunas and Vilnius, are a joy to explore. They are also easier than ever to visit since Lithuania, along with Latvia and Estonia, standardised rail timetables and integrated trains in 2025.
You can now take a direct train to Vilnius from Riga or Tallinn, and there is more is to come: the delayed high-speed Rail Baltica project will connect the Baltic States and Warsaw, meaning eventually you’ll be able to quickly and simply travel from the UK to Vilnius and Kaunas by train.
Vilnius is one of Europe’s greenest cities, with eco-credentials such as sprawling parks, electric trolleybuses and clean river beaches. Its Old Town is in great condition, and it’s a wonder it isn’t swarming with more tourists. The fact that it’s not means I enjoyed a quiet coffee outside the Eureka Bookshop, then went inside to browse books in English, then wandered past the Presidential Palace and Cathedral. Dionysos is a charming little Greek joint in Vilnius Old Town where I sat out at a table on the pavement and enjoyed a hearty serving of spanakopita.
There’s no tourist tat, no rubbish on the streets.
Vilnius Old Town in Lithuania has Unesco World Heritage status (Christopher Beanland)
The Lithuanian capital, since it gained its independence in 1990, ranks as one of the best value destinations in Europe. A train ticket from the Airport to Vilnius’ central Main Station is just €0.90. I cannot think of a cheaper airport connection.
Make sure to huff and puff your way up the city’s two hills – as I did – the Hill of Three Crosses is crowned with a monument which honours a trio of Franciscans who met a grizzly end here. The sunset view with a cold soda at 6pm is perfection. Gediminas Tower sits on top of the other hill, which is smaller and rises above the Old Town – giving a great view over the gorgeous historic heart of Vilnius.
At the bottom, I stopped for a drink in at the beautiful Pacai hotel, a gorgeous property that’s part of the Design Hotels stable, with minimalist decor and a swish bar and restaurant.
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The brutalist Palace of Concerts and Sports is an intriguing sight. As with the Linnahall in Estonia’s Tallinn, this former sports hall is in need of some love – I trampled over fences and up crumbling stairs to get a better look. Various plans have been mooted for redevelopment. Its part in Lithuania’s history is one reason for keeping it – high-level political meetings were held here when Lithuania was trying to break away from the USSR.
Vilnius Palace of Culture and Sport in Lithuania’s capital (Christopher Beanland)
I ended my time in the city with more wild swimming. Vilnius is one of the best cities for wild swimming in the world, with clean water and beaches so good they earn an EU Blue Flag.
I headed for Valakampiai Beach on the Neris River. It’s fantastically well-maintained, clean, safe, life-guarded (during the summer), and complete with picnic lawns, barbecues, toilets, and showers. I jumped in and let the currents carry me downstream.
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An easy bus connection, taking just over an hour, brought me to Kaunas. The city was the capital of the Lithuanian Republic in the 1920s and 30s when a short-lived but exciting period of independence birthed incredible architecture. I walked past the Post Office and the Milk Company HQ – two key sights. There are also fantastic clusters of inventive Art Deco houses and apartment blocks.
The Yard Gallery in Kaunas, Lithuania is an open-air art gallery in an historic courtyard (Christopher Beanland)
Today’s Kaunas hums with excitement – historic buildings sit on the joining point of two rivers in a splendid spot, and this educated and handsome town filled with students is buzzing. Street art and cool bars make it a lively weekend break. On the side wall of the brutalist Modern Art Gallery is a mural by Osgemeos, those bad-boy Brazilian brothers of the street art world. Their mother was from Lithuania, and they have often spoken about their Baltic heritage from their base in São Paulo.
I also stopped by the Yard Gallery – where colourful artworks hang in a yard between buildings.
After that, I marvelled at the weird sight of the Britanika Hotel – a 14-storey abandoned building. The hotel never opened and indeed was never finished after construction started in the 1990s. It looks like something from 28 Days Later. In the evening, in bare-bricked brewpub Hop Doc, I joined the bearded Kaunas cognoscenti (alas, my own beard is not as impressive) for a gourmet burger.
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I ended my trip with a short ride out of town to Pažaislis Monastery. This Baroque beauty is the largest monastery in Lithuania, set in rolling green fields. The majesty of the architecture is matched by the serenity of the setting and the chance to revel in the divine as you consider its four centuries of history. It’s also a renowned filming location – HBO’s Catherine the Great was shot here.
Vilnius in Lithuania is a very green city with plenty to explore outdoors (Chris Beanland)
The mix of history and greenery seemed to sum up Lithuania and its twin cities. Architecture and nature both dazzle in their own way in this small but perfectly formed Baltic state. I walked back towards the river as the sun set, vowing to return to explore more.
Christopher Beanland was hosted by Courtyard Vilnius, Radisson Blu Vilnius, Omio, Visit Kaunas and Go Vilnius.
How to do it
Travel between Kaunas and Vilnius is booked via Omio, where a single bus ticket costs around £10.
There are direct flights to Vilnius from London Stansted and London Luton (Ryanair) and London Luton (Ryanair and Wizz) starting from £47 return.
Kaunas
There are direct flights to Kaunas from London Stansted, Bristol, Belfast, Liverpool and Edinburgh (Ryanair) and London Luton (Ryanair and Wizz) starting from £41 return.
Where to stay in Vilnius
Courtyard sits in an area of intriguing new architecture. A plaza with fountains sits beside the building and guests get views towards Gediminas Castle.
A lofty tower and landmark in Lithuania, Radisson Blu Vilnius was one of the country’s first skyscrapers. Spectacular views over the city.
Where to stay in Kaunas
Moxy Kaunas Center has a buzzing communal area with games, bar and restaurant. Upstairs, the small rooms are quirky and great value.