Our food critic tries out the latest offering from the man behind the capital’s pizza revolution

Reggie’s Pizzeria in Rathmines

If we have anyone to thank for the fact the standard of pizza in Ireland has improved so dramatically in recent years, it’s probably Reggie White. It was White, a former auctioneer, who decamped to Ballymaloe during the crash — he says he was radicalised there — and acquired his pizza edge in San Francisco, who came up with the winning formula at Pi on George’s Street, which opened in 2018. Pi turned out to be the starting point for Ireland’s pizza revolution and the proliferation of good pizza outlets up and down the country.

In Dublin, if Pi is all about the Neapolitan, and Bambino — for which White was part of the opening team — a Hibernian homage to the New York slice, we also have Mani, serving Roman-style al taglio pizza, and Doom, channelling a Detroit deep-dish sensibility.