When it comes to red wines, I have always had a soft spot for Bordeaux. Whether it’s an ultra-concentrated Cabernet Sauvignon from the best terroirs of Pauillac or a creamy, floral Merlot from the clay-ferrous soils of Pomerol, these nectars can be unforgettable.
But while Bordeaux winegrowing enjoyed unparalleled global popularity in the 1990s and 2000s, the situation is very different today.
The boom years have given way to years of normalisation. Global crises, whether health-related, political or economic, have radically changed the situation. Faced with overproduction, Bordeaux winegrowers have had to adapt, leading to the grubbing up of more than 20,000 hectares of vines. By 2024, the area under vine will have fallen below the 100,000-hectare mark.
However, the quality of Bordeaux wines from the best terroirs is not in question. I still take great pleasure in discovering these wonderful blends of Cabernet and Merlot, which offer an incomparable tasting experience.
Château La Lagune offers exceptional hospitality packages. The kitchen on the ground floor is the heart of the property. The kitchen, located on the ground floor, is the soul of the house, adorned with a magnificent stone vault and a particularly extraordinary roasting fireplace. © Photo credit: Claude François
As I no longer take part in the “en primeur” tastings of a new vintage in Bordeaux, I will taste the 2024 (apparently very heterogeneous) and 2023 (promising) vintages as soon as the wines are bottled. Let’s take a look at the vintages already available on the market.
2021 vintage sandwiched between the great 2020 and 2022 vintages
In July 2024, I visited many châteaux in the Médoc region that are part of the ‘Grands Crus Classés en 1855’. These châteaux are located northwest of the city of Bordeaux, towards the Atlantic, on the left bank of the Gironde, in the Haut-Médoc, Margaux, Saint-Julien, Pauillac and Saint-Estèphe appellations.
I tasted all or some of the 2020, 2021 and 2022 vintages. The highly prized 2022 vintage is indeed a very great year, with fairly expensive wines that will age very well thanks to their vitality. They are a little fresher than the 2020 vintages, another great year for Bordeaux red wines, which are currently priced at around the same level as the 2022s.
The 2021 vintage, sandwiched between these excellent years, does not have the same maturity or aromatic purity. However, some châteaux have produced successful 2021 wines, which are available at lower prices.
2019, the superb vintage not to be missed
I did not re-taste the 2019 vintage on this occasion, but I would advise any serious Bordeaux lover not to miss out on this dazzling vintage, whose prices fell sharply at the “en primeur” sale due to the Covid pandemic. Bottles of this delicious vintage are still available and have the advantage of having also produced some absolutely successful second wines and less prestigious crus. And they can be enjoyed right now.
2018, a hot vintage
This overview of the latest Bordeaux vintages would not be complete without 2018. As in almost every country in Europe, 2018 was an extremely hot and dry year. The wines are marked by water stress and a lack of freshness, but the 2018 Bordeaux wines are extremely concentrated and display unprecedented alcohol levels. The best of them are, of course, exceptional bottles with exceptional longevity.
Château La Lagune is a personal favourite
In the next instalment of my column, I will reveal my favourite wines from the 2020 to 2022 vintages in the various Médoc appellations.
A real favourite: the three vintages 2020, 2021 and 2022 from Château La Lagune, a Third Growth in the Haut-Médoc appellation, are excellent and relatively affordable. © Photo credit: Château La Lagune
But I can’t wait to tell you about one wine that literally blew me away and has been outstanding in all three vintages. It is Château La Lagune, a third growth in the Haut-Médoc appellation. It is the closest classified growth to the Bordeaux urban area and takes its name from the fifteen natural water sources that irrigate the land. In the early 2000s, the estate entered a new era when it was purchased by the family of oenologist Caroline Frey, who also manages estates in Burgundy, the Rhône Valley and Champagne. Major work was undertaken, and in 2016, the entire estate was converted to organic farming. In 2021, the château received biodynamic certification.
The result lives up to the commitments made. The 2020 vintage, available on the market at a price of between €40 and €48, reveals a superb creamy, graceful and elegant palate. The 2021 vintage is one of the greatest successes of all the Médoc classified growths. It is characterised by pure, vibrant fruit, length, silkiness and minerality (around €40) and La Lagune 2022 (€46 to €55), which has more Merlot than usual and resembles a Pomerol with its violet notes. A masterpiece, a wine so smooth and sapid that you will want to drink it now!