It’s been almost half a century since I first went to Croatia, part of Yugoslavia in those days. Shipped off for the summer to my parents’ hinterland region of Lika (home of Plitvice Lakes National Park), I’ve been back dozens of times since.
I’ve seen it change from a sleepy corner of the Adriatic into one of Europe’s most alluring holiday hotspots. But as tourist numbers swell – 21.3 million visitors in 2024 – it’s crucial to know where to go in this country with a 1,000 mile coastline.
After decades of visits and having written numerous books on Croatia, here are my all-time favourites.
DREAMY IN RAB
Narrow stone street in town of Rab, Croatia. Pic: Shutterstock
Prefer sandy beaches to the usual pebbly and rocky ones you find in Croatia? Head to the tiny island of Rab in the Kvarner Gulf and choose from two dozen sandy coves.
Rab Town is one of Croatia’s dreamiest a medieval, Renaissance and Venetian mishmash of narrow marble lanes topped with its distinctive skyline of four church towers.
MY TIP: Come during Rabska Fjera, Croatia’s biggest and oldest medieval festival, which takes place every July 25-27 and features huge beach barbecues and street parties.
HIKING AND BIKING
Mljet, Croatia. Pic: Shutterstock
Come to Dubrovnik and chances are you’ll nip over to Mljet on a day trip. But Croatia’s greenest island deserves more than just a few hours. About a third of it is taken up by the Mljet National Park, whose tree-shaded hiking and biking trails wind around two saltwater lakes. Take the little boat to the island monastery of St Mary in the larger lake.
Daredevils can follow the rocky path on Mljet’s southern coast to Odysseus’s Cave and dive off the cliffs into the vividly blue water (np-mljet. hr).
MY TIP: Hike to the top of the national park’s Mount Montokuc at 256m for the best panoramic views.
CROATIAN ‘VENICE’
Aerial view of the Rovinj old town at sunset, famous ancient Croatian city at the Adriatic sea. Pic: Shutterstock
You might do a double-take when entering the tiny peninsula that’s home to Rovinj’s old town – as it’s a dead ringer for Venice, across the Adriatic Sea in Italy. Rovinj is exquisite, with pastel-coloured houses on cobbled lanes winding upwards towards the baroque church and belltower of St Euphemia.
MY TIP: Take the ten-minute boat shuttle from the harbour to St Katarina island and its secluded beach.
LOVELY LOSINJ
Island of Losinj, archipelago of Croatia. Pic: Shutterstock
In the Kvarner Gulf was a favourite of the 19th century Austrian emperor Franz Joseph, who turned this herb-covered island into his traditional summer playground.
Admire the pretty sea captains’ houses along the ports of the two main villages, Mali Loinj and Veli Loinj, and rent a bike to cycle along pine-backed trails that run around much of the island.
Stop in Cikat Bay for numerous beaches, hotels and restaurants along its wonky coast, breathing in heady scents of pine.
MY TIP: Drive to the hilltop Providenca lookout and restaurant for gorgeous views.
CHARM OF KORCULA
Panorama of Croatian town Korcula. Pic: Shutterstock
Korcula Town, surrounded by walls on its own peninsula, is like a mini Dubrovnik but without the crowds. Its narrow lanes fan out like a fishbone, which keeps the air flowing during hot summer days.
Visit the beaches tucked into deep harbours along the southern coast, particularly Pupnatska Luka. Vela Luka on the western end of Korcula is the gateway to other Dalmatian islands including Hvar, Vis and Lastovo.
MY TIP: Visit the family-run wineries including Zure and Bire in the fishing village of Lumbarda and taste crisp dry white grk, grown only in this village (zure.hr, bire. hr).
ZIP OFF TO ZAGREB
Saint Marks Church. Zagreb. Croatia. Pic: Shutterstock
Croatia’s elegant capital takes the best of central European traditions – particularly café culture and stately baroque architecture – and adds a dash of Mediterranean colour.
Stroll between Zagreb’s medieval and baroque Upper Town (where you’ll find St Mark’s Church) and the Lower Town filled with handsome 19th century townhouses around grand landscaped parks.
MY TIP: When the temperature rises, take the bus to Lake Jarun and its sandy beaches and waterfront bars.
WALKERS’ HEAVEN
A traveler explores the serene wooden walkways of Plitvice Lakes National Park, surrounded by vibrant trees and flowing water. The refreshing atmosphere invites connection with nature. Pic: Shutterstock
Plitvice Lakes National Park is Croatia’s oldest national park and also its most dramatic – 16 lakes and countless waterfalls in every shade of blue, green and turquoise flow into the rivers of Plitvice Lakes National Park.
Raised wooden walkways and tree-shaded footpaths swivel past one lake after another, some leading to the boat that takes you across the largest lake, Kozjak.
MY TIP: It can get crowded, but less so if you start at ‘entrance one’ and work from the upper lakes to the lower levels.
HISTORY GALORE
View of bell tower in Split, Croatia. Pic: Shutterstock
Croatia’s second city, Split, is more than just the jumping-off point for ferries to Dalmatia’s islands. Dive into Split’s ancient history by wandering the ruins of Diocletian’s Palace, built in the third century AD, in the old town. Stroll past the café terraces of the Riva waterfront to the hilly greenery of the Marjan peninsula, criss-crossed with walking trails. You can take the bus to Trogir and wander around its Unesco-listed old town, set on its own tiny island.
MY TIP: Split’s Bacvice Beach is party central. Try the quieter coves of the Marjan peninsula.
DRAMATIC OMIS
Omis town, Croatia. Pic: Shutterstock
With the Cetina River and Canyon cutting deeply through the centre of Omi, there are few cities along the Adriatic coast that have such a dramatic and stunning setting.
At its foot are a delightful Venetian-style old town and the rare sight of a wide sandy beach. Carry on through the river canyon for wild adventures rafting and kayaking.
MY TIP: The zipline tour across the river canyon is stupendous – eight stages that take more than two hours to finish (ziplinecroatia.com).
ANCIENT ZADAR
Zadar, Croatia. Pic: Shutterstock
Zadar’s mix of ancient and modern makes it one of Croatia’s most appealing cities. In just one square you find ruins of a Roman Forum, Byzantine church, Romanesque cathedral and Benedictine monastery.
Stroll along the waterfront to see two audacious works of modern art: the haunting sounds of the Sea Organ and the glittering panels of Greeting to the Sun. Spend your days on one of the many nearby beaches or go island-hopping in the Zadar archipelago.
MY TIP: Don’t miss Zadar’s morning food market in the old town with a huge selection of home-grown produce, cheese, meats, fish and olive oils.
PEACE AND PARTIES
Franciscian monastery and turquoise beach on Hvar island, archipelago of Dalmatia, Croatia. Pic: Shutterstock
Mnetion Hvar and many think of its reputation as a mini-Ibiza, with partygoers thronging beach clubs till the late hours.
That’s true in the summer, but look beyond the island’s capital to more laid-back towns and villages where you can truly relax on Croatia’s sunniest island. Stari Grad, Jelsa and Vrboska are much more peaceful and all are surrounded by beaches, including a sandy one near Jelsa.
Mary Novakovich above Hvar Town. Pic: Supplied
MY TIP: Go hiking in Unesco-listed Stari Grad Plain, where you can still see the vineyards and olive groves planted by the Greeks 2,400 years ago.
FAMOUS BRAC BEACH
Town of Baska Voda beach and waterfront view, Makarska riviera in Dalmatia, Croatia. Pic: Shutterstock
Brac is Dalmatia’s largest island, but it will be forever known as the home of Croatia’s most famous beach – the V-shaped Zlatni Rat on the southern coast near Bol. There’s more to see, though, including the pretty villages of Sutivan, Milna and, especially, Pučišća on the northern coast.
MY TIP: If you can’t face the hike, drive to the top of Vidova Gora, the highest point in Dalmatia, and take in the views.
ENCHANTING CAVTAT
Town of Cavtat waterfront view, south Dalmatia, Croatia. Pic: Shutterstock
The last major town before you hit the Montenegrin border, Cavtat is an excellent alternative to busy Dubrovnik just up the coast. Set within the bays between a twopronged, forested peninsula, it’s an enchanting place of Venetian stone houses, pebbly beaches, pine-shaded walking trails and a pleasingly chilled-out atmosphere.
MY TIP: It’s an easy boat trip if you want a day out in Dubrovnik, and even cheaper if you take the bus.
RUGGED AND REMOTE VIS
Vis island in Croatia. Harbor and town aerial view in Vis, Croatia. Pic: Shutterstock
One of Croatia’s furthestflung islands is still quite quiet despite being in the limelight after it stood in for Greece in the Mamma Mia! sequel.
Take in the relaxed atmosphere of Venetian-style Vis Town and Komiža, and join one of the boat excursions to the blindingly Blue Cave in the neighbouring island of Biševo.
MY TIP: Vis has one of Croatia’s most beautiful beaches, Stineva, a rugged spot behind two curving cliffs.
WATERFALL WONDERS
Amazing waterfalls Krka National Park in Croatia. Pic: Shutterstock
Better known as the gateway to the waterfalls of Krka National Park, ibenik deserves a longer look at its Venetian old town and Unesco-listed St James’s Cathedral.
A labyrinth of narrow marble lanes holds tiny familyrun restaurants and bars, with more along the convivial Riva waterfront and towards the city beach.
MY TIP: A combined ticket gets you into all three impressive hilltop Venetian forts looming over the city (tvrdjava-kulture.hr).
SLOW DOWN IN SOLTA
Maslinica, island Solta, Croatia. Pic: Shutterstock
Solta sits in full view of Split’s Riva waterfront, yet it’s often bypassed in favour of Brac and Hvar. Do so, however, and you’re missing out on a slow-paced island of pebbly coves, cute fishing villages, acres of olive groves (making prize-winning oils) and vineyards producing olta’s indigenous red dobricic wine.
MY TIP: Check out the beaches along the jagged southern coast, including Tatinja and Stracinska.
DON’T MISS DUBROVNIK
A stunning view from behind Fort Lovrijenac in Dubrovnik, Croatia. Pic: Shutterstock
Yes, Croatia’s biggest tourist attraction does get overwhelmed during the summer months, but its beauty really is captivating. Walk the city walls for intimate glimpses into daily life among the pedestrianised old town’s medieval, Renaissance and baroque palaces and townhouses, while taking glorious views of the Adriatic.
Relax on the big expanses of beaches along the Lapad and Babin Kuk peninsulas north of the old town.
MY TIP: Escape the crowds on a day trip to the tiny island of Lokrum, only a 15-minute boat ride from the old port.
AND WHAT TO AVOID…
paradise beach on Pag island in Croatia. Pic: ShutterstockTiming is everything in Croatia. It’s not so much a case of avoiding places, but periods. The busiest months are July and August: Split’s waterfront gets clogged with island-hopping passengers waiting for ferries; Dubrovnik is an even greater heaving sea of people than usual; Hvar Town is swamped with partygoers getting fined for bad behaviour.
The island of Pag normally has more sheep than people, but summer brings huge numbers to massive beach parties and outdoor nightclubs in Novalja and Zrce. Head to quieter Pag Town for a bit of peace. The shoulder season months of May, June, September and October are preferable if you can travel at those times.
Mary Novakovich is author of My Family and Other Enemies: Life and Travels in Croatia’s Hinterland, published by Bradt Travel Guides.