Interior of Miyuki, a pasta omakase in Songpa-gu, Seoul (Hong Yoo/ The Korea Herald) Tucked away in the quiet alleys of Songpa-gu, Seoul, Miyuki introduces a bold new concept that’s turning heads in the city’s fine dining scene: a pasta omakase. Led by Chef Zeno, a Michelin-caliber chef trained in Italy, the restaurant bridges Japanese precision and Italian tradition in a serene, minimalist setting where just eight guests are served per seating.
Chef Zeno’s culinary pedigree is impeccable. A graduate of Italy’s prestigious ALMA Culinary School, he trained in the kitchens of Piazza Duomo Alba, a three-Michelin-starred restaurant, and Dal Corsaro, a one-star establishment. He now presents his most personal and refined work at Miyuki — a deeply considered 11-course tasting menu (100,000 won) centered on freshly made pasta.
Every dish reflects his classical training, filtered through a Japanese lens. Chef Zeno kneads and rolls each batch of dough by hand, builds deeply layered broths and finishes each course with sauces that are as restrained as they are balanced.
Second amuse-bouche: scallop topped with sea urchin cream, enclosed in layers of sweet, seasoned nori (Hong Yoo/ The Korea Herald) New kind of omakase
While sushi omakase has become a staple in Seoul, Miyuki offers something rarer and arguably more ambitious. The menu opens with three amuse-bouches, each no bigger than a bite, but rich in technique and texture.
The first: bluefin tuna, shallot, avocado oil and shiso assembled in a crisp tart shell and topped with Miyuki’s snowflake emblem. The sweetness of the shallot complements the buttery tuna, while the shiso adds a fleeting herbal note.
Next, a standout bite of scallop topped with sea urchin cream, enclosed in layers of sweet, seasoned nori. The uni cream is gently torched for a hint of charred aroma, delivering a burst of ocean flavor without overwhelming the palate.
The third amuse-bouche features potato gnocchi with Chodang corn and black truffle. The seared gnocchi evokes the flavor of a corn tortilla, while the fresh corn kernels pop with sweetness. The truffle takes a subtle backseat, letting the seasonal corn shine.
Angel hair pasta with monkfish liver, ponzu, shallot and shiso oil (Hong Yoo/ The Korea Herald) Depth, simplicity and technique
A cold tofu and sesame custard in bonito broth offers a palate cleanse before the first pasta course. Served like a delicate pudding and topped with a crispy rice tuile, the dish delivers concentrated umami with a smoky finish.
Then comes the restaurant’s signature: angel hair pasta with monkfish liver, ponzu, shallot and shiso oil. Handmade with cuttlefish ink, the noodles are impossibly thin and silky. The dish is finished with a cherrywood-smoked shiso oil that perfumes the entire room, creating a sensory crescendo.
Onion raviolone filled with spring onion and white miso, wrapped in beet-stained dough and topped with dill oil and Pecorino (Hong Yoo/ The Korea Herald) Other pastas are equally memorable. The onion raviolone is filled with spring onion and white miso, wrapped in beet-stained dough, and topped with dill oil and Pecorino. It’s soft, chewy and sweet with subtle miso umami.
Tajarin with sweet shrimp and bisque sauce, made with flour and egg pasta, tossed in a rich bisque and topped with bottarga (Hong Yoo/ The Korea Herald) Then there’s the tajarin with sweet shrimp and bisque sauce, made with flour and egg pasta, tossed in a rich bisque and topped with bottarga. The sous-chef performs the final mantecatura in front of diners, enhancing both flavor and spectacle.
Sous-chef plating dishes with a final touch at Miyuki in Seoul (Hong Yoo/ The Korea Herald) Carefully composed mains and desserts
A refreshing plum granita made with plum extract, wine and apple mint prepares the palate for a risotto with tilefish, tomato and scallion. The tilefish is cooked masterfully: crisp skin, barely set flesh and juicy interior. The tomato-based risotto underneath, while delicately acidic, fades slightly in comparison to the star-quality fish.
Sous-vide flank steak, smoked with applewood and paired with mashed potatoes, chile puree, 30-year-aged balsamic glaze, mustard and salt (Hong Yoo/ The Korea Herald) For the main dish, Chef Zeno serves sous-vide flank steak, smoked with applewood and paired with mashed potatoes, chile puree, 30-year-aged balsamic glaze, mustard and salt. Each condiment draws a different facet of the tender, aromatic beef.
Wine and sake pairings are highly recommended and artfully chosen by the in-house sommelier. Generous pours and attentive service elevate the experience, and the tasting menu’s seasoning subtly intensifies course by course to complement the drinks.
The final course, matcha panna cotta, is a masterclass in balance. Made with fresh vanilla and matcha syrup, it’s lightly sweet with just enough bitterness. A sprinkle of Maldon sea salt adds a savory counterpoint.
Quiet culinary revelation
With seasonal ingredients, elegant pacing and refined technique, Miyuki delivers one of Seoul’s most original fine dining experiences. Chef Zeno’s background in Michelin-starred kitchens is evident in every dish, but it is his ability to blend cultural influences and capture the essence of each season that makes Miyuki a quiet revelation. As menus change with the seasons, diners are encouraged to return and discover what’s next.
yoohong@heraldcorp.com