August the 31st, 2025 – The greenest island is also home to the longest settlement in all of Dalmatia. Babino Polje, which literally translates to Grandma’s field on gorgeous Mljet is known for its wine and olive culture that spans centuries.
As Putni kofer writes, when we talk about Dalmatia, our first association is always ancient picturesque towns by the sea, quaint fishing villages made up of stone houses and breathtaking islands. The dog breed likely also comes to mind. Besides its unmatched beauty, Dalmatia is also home to some rather surprising records. One of them belongs to the stunning island of Mljet. Known as the greenest island, it’s also where the longest settlement in Dalmatia is located – Babino Polje. It stretches for almost four kilometres and at first glance captivates with its somewhat odd, elongated layout. It also boasts a rich history that makes it very special indeed compared to other island settlements.
Babino Polje is the largest, longest and one of the oldest settlements on the island of Mljet. It is located in the central part of the island, at the foot of the hills of Veliki and Mali Grad, and is home to around 300 inhabitants. The entire settlement consists of three hamlets, Zadublje, Sršenovići and Zabrežje, which together form a unique whole. Precisely because of its size and importance, Babino Polje proudly bears the title of the administrative centre of the island. The Duke of Mljet once resided here, and the village also played an important role during the long reign of the Dubrovnik Republic, which crumbled only in 1808.
The first written records of Babino Polje’s existence date back to the 11th century, when the inhabitants built a church dedicated to Saint Pancras, the first patron saint of the island. This church was given to the Benedictines of Lokrum in 1039, and shortly thereafter Babino Polje became the ecclesiastical centre of the island. Even today, a number of historic churches and chapels can be found here, testifying to the extremely rich religious and cultural heritage of this ancient place.
In addition to history, Babino Polje also lives in the present thanks to its local people. The fertile field that surrounds it has shaped the lives and interests of its inhabitants, meaning that agriculture is still the main economic activity here. Grapevines and olive trees occupy a special place, and it’s precisely thanks to the passion and dedication of the locals that this area is known for its high quality local wines and olive oils.
For visitors who want to experience the true rhythm of island life, Babino Polje is an excellent starting point for exploring the magical Mljet National Park and enjoying the authentic atmosphere of one of the greenest Croatian islands.
Just a few minutes’ drive from Babino Polje is one of the most mystical places in the entire Adriatic. It is, of course, Odysseus’s Cave. Due to the white stone and the reflection of the sun, the sea in and around the cave takes on a magical blue colour, and the location itself is suitable for swimming and is a favourite among adventurers who like to jump from the rocks surrounding it. It was named after the legend of Odysseus, who supposedly found shelter from a storm there on his journey.
The story goes that after a shipwreck, the Greek hero Odysseus stayed on this island, which captivated him with its beauty. He was imprisoned in the cave by the nymph Calypso, daughter of the god Atlanta, who only freed him after seven years, on the direct order of Zeus. Many experts are convinced that the island of Ogygia from Homer’s Odyssey is actually Mljet.
It would be a crime not to visit the beach when on Mljet. On the greenest island and not far from the longest settlement in Dalmatia, you’ll come across one of the most beautiful beaches imaginable – Sutmiholjska. This pebble bay, surrounded by dense, lush Mediterranean greenery and the scent and shade of pine trees, offers a true sense of isolated paradise. Locals will tell you that the best time to swim is early in the morning, when the sea is flat, calm and the first rays of the sun gild the surface before it gets too hot. Then, the entire bay takes on an almost divine atmosphere. Sutmiholjska is ideal for those who want to escape the crowds and spend a day in the silence of nature, far, far away from the busy, stressful world.
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