Dirt—it’s something most of us try to avoid at all costs. “Dirty” is something shameful to be cured, and often used as an insult. As a culture, we cleanse and clarify and detox and purify our drinking water, our skin, and our diets. We’re willing to pay a premium for products labeled “clean.”

As a fourth-generation farm girl, you would imagine I’d be immune from this societal construct. And while I pride myself on not falling for organic or non-GMO propaganda, I’ve never quite felt connected with the power the earth holds—despite my life’s blood and livelihood being sourced directly from it. I’ve always been a mermaid at heart, a Water Sign both in my soul and on my birth chart. So when I got the invitation to spend a few days in the caves of Cappadocia, Turkey, I wondered if this would change my perspective.

Kelsey Stiegman

While the region plays host to many cave-dwelling hotels, Avantgarde Refined is one of its newest. Opening in November of 2024, the property converted a cluster of 4,000-year-old caves into 49 individual suites. Everything from the hotel spa to its on-site restaurant Ace is located inside ancient caverns that were first inhabited in 600 AD.

The owner, İsmet Öztanık, made a conscious decision not to renovate these historic sites. Instead, they reinforced the walls, leaving them raw and rugged, while installing chiffon canopies to protect beds from the naturally-occurring dust. During my stay, I’d find myself continuously running my fingers across the granular walls of the cave I temporarily called my home, while breathing in the delicious, earthy scent of the Cappadocia rock.

Kelsey Stiegman

Fresh off a nine-hour flight, the promise of a 60-minute Swedish massage immediately drew me in, but it was the location that truly made the experience so impactful. Walking through the spa was like exploring the winding tunnels of a magical land. Guests can book standard wellness treatments or the luxurious bathing ritual of the traditional Turkish hammam in rooms of varying levels of rustic-ness. I chose a 10 on the scale, descending down a narrow tunnel into a dimly-lit cavern where I experienced a relaxation routine surrounded by thousands of years of history.

Beyond my massage, the Avantgarde Refined team packed my calendar full of excursions to truly give me a taste of the Turkish lifestyle, including a hot air balloon ride and a pottery class. I had anticipated the highlight would be watching the sunrise over the mountains from 1,000 feet up—and it absolutely was. But I connected with the winding canyons, formed from ancient volcanic tuff and ignimbrite, more so than the technicolor orbs suspended around me. These ornate rock formations are a natural occurrence that can only be found in Cappadocia (hot air balloon rides, on the other hand, one can book in Las Vegas—thought the view certainly isn’t the same).

Kelsey Stiegman

Kelsey Stiegman

Kelsey Stiegman

Like my birth chart—which reads Water Sign, Water Sign, Earth Sign (Cancer Sun, Scorpio Moon, Virgo Rising)—the two elements were intrinsically combined on my trip, despite their polarity. (In fact, I began writing this story while floating in the hotel’s heated pool.) After rejoicing in the Cappadocian sun for several days, I flew to another region of Turkey, a popular travel destination called Bodrum. A stone’s throw from the Greek islands, the beachy towns along Bodrum’s coastline reflect its proximity. Each mountainside is stacked with white-washed houses, boasting stunning shorelines and endless views of the Aegean Sea.

There, I visited Avantgarde’s sister property, Avantegarde Refined Yalıkavak, the first-born daughter of the close-knit luxury resort family. Much like actual siblings, the two hotels are different in every way, designed to reflect their drastically opposing landscapes. Where the Cappadocian property was all organic shapes and soft neutrals, Bodrum’s location was structured, with wood furnishings and lush foliage.

Kelsey Stiegman

Kelsey Stiegman

I spent most of my time there on the brilliant blue water—my preferred state. I lounged by the sea, took a boat ride, toured the local marina and the Museum of Underwater Archaeology, and did morning yoga on the hotel’s floating deck, which was made all the more difficult by the rocking waves. Of course, the seafood—my choice protein—was fresh and plentiful.

Kelsey Stiegman

Kelsey Stiegman

Kelsey Stiegman

Typically, the sight of open water wipes all other thoughts from my mind. Any experience before or after becomes irrelevant, falling second to my favorite element. But even after spending several days in one of the world’s most magnificent coastal towns, I still kept thinking back to my experience in Cappadocia. This trip marked one of the first times in my life the epilogue wasn’t overshadowed by water’s beauty.

Kelsey Stiegman

Kelsey Stiegman

Though I grew up camping with my family and hiking through State Parks, it was always a means to an end. There was usually a lake or waterfall or ravine at the end of the climb that made the journey worth it. But in this case, Cappadocia was both the journey and the destination. At the end of the week, as I wiped the dust and red clay off my favorite pair of Margiela Tabis (unwilling participants in my journey), I felt lucky to have worn them under such incredible circumstances. It took a trip to Turkey for me to finally connect with a part of my identity that’s long been neglected—a mistake I’ll never make again.