Tucked away in a side street of Uelzechtstrooss, the longest pedestrianised street in the country, is a place that is more than just a restaurant.

The Mesa (la Maison de la transition) has operated in the heart of Esch-sur-Alzette since 2016 and pursues a mission: healthy, minimally processed food with no frills.

The restaurant had been on my list for a long time, but the opening hours didn’t exactly make a visit easy – the restaurant isn’t open in the evenings. Now I’ve finally made the time – and I wasn’t disappointed.

When you enter the Mesa, you immediately notice that two concepts merge here. In the front area is the inviting bistro. At the back, a door leads to a small corner shop with regional, unpackaged food.

Important to know: This Mesa has nothing to do with the Mesa Verde in the capital, even though both serve vegetarian food. The restaurant in Esch always offers vegan and gluten-free options.

The concept is deliberately minimalist: There are changing daily specials, salads, a quiche and homemade cakes. There is no big menu, just a display that shows what is currently on offer.

Simple and honest cuisine

The mushroom soup tasted intensely of porcini mushrooms. It was served with gluten-free bread. © Photo credit: Sabrina Backes

The lentil dish was served with wholegrain rice. © Photo credit: Sabrina Backes

My companion opted for the spelt with pumpkin and red cabbage. © Photo credit: Sabrina Backes

For dessert, we had a slice of marble cake and an espresso. © Photo credit: Sabrina Backes

We start with the mushroom soup (€3 as a starter or €5 for a large portion). On this chilly day, it’s just the thing: it tastes intensely of porcini mushrooms, is warming and comforting. It comes with two slices of gluten-free bread, presumably made from corn flour: finally gluten-free bread that doesn’t taste like cardboard!

My main course, lentils with vegetables and yellow runner beans on wholemeal rice (€14), is exactly what I was looking for: a balanced and filling dish. The pulses provide plenty of protein and the vegetables are crunchy and fresh. Nothing fancy, but that’s exactly why it’s good.

My companion raves about the spelt with roasted pumpkin and sweet red cabbage. The firm-to-the-bite and nutty-tasting spelt is refined with chopped almonds and caramelised onions. “Finally something other than just pasta, potatoes or rice,” she says.

Both dishes are served with a fresh side salad of crisp lettuce, carrots and beetroot. Beetroot is usually my nemesis, but the spicy mustard dressing skilfully balances out the sweet-tasting vegetables. The advantage of seasonal cuisine: everything tastes intense, nothing is watery.

To finish, we both order a slice of marble cake (€4) and an espresso (€2.30). The cake immediately takes me back to my childhood – that intense cocoa flavour, that moist texture! In total, we pay just under €47 for a three-course lunch – a very fair price in Luxembourg: the price-performance ratio is absolutely right.

If you combine soup and main course, you pay €17. If you’re feeling peckish, you can get a quiche with salad for €10. It should be added at this point, however, that card payment is not possible.

A place with a mission

The Mesa functions as a meeting place – not only for eating, but also for people who want to engage with sustainable nutrition. Respect for producers and the environment is evident in the ingredients, the preparation methods and the unpackaged shop next door.

The whole thing is run by the Transition Minett association, a group of volunteers with a clear goal: to show practical alternatives to the usual. The programme ranges from vegan picnics and zero-waste dinners with rescued food to cooking workshops and discussion groups.

The food at the Mesa is good – nothing extravagant, but that’s not exactly what is promised. It is healthy, tasty and prepared with a sense of purpose. If you are looking for a place where a good conscience and enjoyment go hand in hand, this is the place for you. Whether for lunch or for one of the numerous events, the Mesa in Esch is definitely worth a visit.

Info

Monday: 09:00-16:00, Tuesday – Friday: 09:00 – 18:00, Saturday: 11:00 – 15:00, Sunday: closed

Address: 1 Rue du Moulin, L-4251 Esch-sur-Alzette

Information on upcoming activities and workshops can be found here.

(This article was originally published by the Luxemburger Wort. Translated using AI, with editing and adaptation by John Monaghan.)

The restaurants reviewed in the “Table Talk” column are not informed that a reporter is visiting. Mediahuis Luxembourg pays a contribution towards the cost of the meal. The rest is paid by the reviewer.